A raspberry is a tart, edible fruit produced by a raspberry cane (Rubus idaeobatus). Pound for pound raspberries are by a wide margin the most prolific of the berry bushes, producing more fruit and more new raspberry plants than any single berry bush. Modern cultivars of raspberry are meant for fresh eating and tend to large and juicy, but require daily picking to prevent fruit from spoiling. Old fashioned raspberries, like Meeker, tend to be smaller and drier which allows them to last on the bush without rotting as quickly.  Raspberry canes are grown worldwide in temperate climates with mild summers and have been cultivated intoseveral different varieties. There are several named cultivars ofraspberries, so it is important to choose one that is right for yourneeds and for your area.

Raspberries are all similar sizes that can be maintained at approximately 5’-6’ tall at maturity. Left unpruned many cultivars can reach 8'-9' tall.

Raspberries come in two types: Everbearing and June-Bearing, with the difference being in fruiting habit. June-Bearing cultivars make fruit once a year in the mid-season on two-year old wood, called floricanes. Everbearing raspberries give fruiit twice a year, once in the early season and again towards the end of the season, on what are called primocanes. The individual harvests of June-bearing types tend to be larger than Everbearing ones, though Everbearing raspberries produce slightly more fruit over the course of the year.

Raspberry bushes are hardy to USDA zones 4-8, unless otherwise noted. This rating tells you the minimum winter temperature the plants typically survive when properly hardened off. Make sure you consult the USDA Hardiness Maps website, which provides information on the average minimum winter temperature in your location, by zip code. Your USDA Plant Hardiness Zone does not reflect the many of the other factors in successfully growing apple trees, including length of growing season, rainfall amounts, soil quality, and chill hours. Consult your local extension service for more detailed information about your local growing region and the factors you will need to know when selecting fruit trees for your home orchard.

All plants have what are called a "chilling hour requirement" in order to flower and produce fruit. Chilling hours are defined as the cumulative period of time between 45 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit and vary from region to region. The majority of apple trees have a chilling hour requirement of anywhere from 500-1000 hours, with some requiring more and a few requiring as little as 200-300 chill hours to blossom and produce. Raspberry bushes that require less than 600 chilling hours are considered "low chill" and are generally more resistant to more intense summer conditions than raspberries with higher chilling hour requirements. The general chilling hours available for you specific location can be found online or determined by your local extension office.

Raspberry bushes need to be planted where they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight measured in early summer (late June to early August). Sufficient sun exposure triggers the initiation of new flower buds for the next growing season, without which there will be no fruit. Fruit ripening and flavor development are also benefited by the carbohydrate production stimulated by the sun, as well as it’s heat. Despite the sun loving nature of raspberries, note that raspberries do not tolerate intense summer heat and should be planted to receive the morning sun and if possible be shaded from the afternoon sun.

Raspberries tolerate a wide variety of soils so long as they are well drained and moderately rich with a pH around 6.3-6.8. Improve your soil where you intend to plant by mixing an inch or two of plant based organic matter(manures are best for vegetable gardens), peat, or coconut coir into an area 1 1/2 to 2 times the diameter of the needed planting hole and up to a foot deep. A 2-4” deep layer of mulch (straw, leaves, or wood chips)applied after planting will continue to improve the soil.

Allow sufficient space for both the top of the plant and it’s roots when selecting the planting location. Refer to size descriptions for each variety, keeping in mind these are generally managed or pruned sizes, not maximum potential sizes. If you are planting an orchard be sure to include enough space between rows for transporting supplies in and fruit out. Additionally raspberry beds need to be rotated, which new raspberry stock, approximately every 5 years due to fungal disease build up in the soil. Make sure to plan out your next bed before you need it!

Raspberries can grow very well in pots as small as 10 gallons and make excellent plants for container gardening. Be sure to thin the old canes and prune your raspberries for height to maintain them in a container. Remember that containers are hotter and drier than in-ground plantings and your raspberries will require more fertilization and irrigation than those planted in the soil.

Do not use soil from your garden to the pot, instead use a potting soil mix with some added compost. For larger pots use a potting mix that has a larger particles in addition to smaller ones.

This is the most important and often the most difficult part of successfully growing plants. There are many factors, including the humidity, temperature, soil type, wind, and amount of direct sun that affect how much and how often water should be applied.

A general rule of thumb for plants in the ground is to ensure they receive an inch of water per week over the root zone. An inch of water is equivalent to about ¾ to one gallon per square foot of soil surface area. The typical three foot diameter planting hole would need 7 ½ to 10 gallons of water per week provided by rainfall or by the gardener.

Apply this water once a week, two times per week if soil is fast draining. This will of course depend on your own conditions and the plants you are growing! DO NOT water lightly each day because this results in a wet surface and dry root zone area. The soil should be moist but not soggy to a depth of about a foot for most growing plants. The top inch or two can feel dry, and the plant still bewell watered. The trick is to have the water available where the roots are. In hotter and sunnier areas, a mulch of straw, bark, etc. can greatly ease the burden of summer watering. For plants in containers, water until the soil is saturated and water comes out of the drainage holes. Let the container dry until the soil is dry to the touch 1 to 2 inches down (more deep with deeper pots) and the container is lighter in weight. A plant that has wilted can be receiving either too much or too little water.

In rainy areas like the Pacific Northwest most of the plants that we offer will need relatively little supplemental irrigation ONCE THEY ARE WELL ESTABLISHED in the ground and have had a chance to develop a good root system. However even here it is important to make sure plants have regular, deep watering during the first couple of growing seasons, and the first summer is especially critical. In drier areas, or where soils do not retain water well, permanent irrigation is essential. Remember that you don’t want your trees to just survive, but rather to thrive. Make sure they get the water where they need it, starting at the drip line and extending away from the tree up to several feet ( for older trees) where the feeder roots will be. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be an efficient way to deliver the water.

For good steady growth and high productivity, your trees need to have adequate amounts of various mineral nutrients. Some people are fortunate and have naturally rich fertile soil.

Use an all-purpose or bloom-producing fertilizer if necessary. A couple of inches of well-rotted compost on the root zone can also be an effective fertilizer. A generous leaf or straw mulch around your trees will not only conserve moisture and help in weed control, but also keeps your soil healthy by building up humus, attracting earth worms, and supporting beneficial fungal organisms. This encourages young trees to be strong, healthy and productive. Avoid applying fertilizer after early summer, doing so can encourage lots of soft new growth that is much more likely to be damaged by winter cold. Excessive use of fertilizer can in-crease disease problems on your plants and can even kill them.

As a general guide, if your tree is producing about one foot of new growth or more a year and has healthy looking foliage, it may not need much or any fertilizer.

Find out what insects and diseases are typical in your area. Ask your local co-operative extension professional what the typical insect and disease issues are in your area. Then you can make selections based on resistance or tolerance information available in our catalog, or, make a plan for controlling problems you can expect with the susceptible varieties you prefer to grow. If you see resistance information about a particular disease for one variety but not another of the same kind of fruit, then that variety may be susceptible or might not have been tested so is unknown. The following are some of the more common issues.