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Raintree Growing Guide

Hops Bines

A vigorous, fast-climbing herbaceous perennial grown for aromatic cone flowers prized by home brewers, herbalists, and gardeners alike. One of the most rewarding crops in the Pacific Northwest — and one of the fastest-growing plants you will ever plant.

AT A GLANCE

SUN Full sun required for maximum cone production; provide afternoon shade in very hot, dry locations. South or southwest exposure ideal.
USDA ZONES 4–8 (some sources list 3–9). Best production between 35°–55° latitude where day length is optimal. Roots dormant-hardy to approximately −20°F.
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (MSU Extension; Cornell Cooperative Extension); well-drained, deep sandy loam ideal. Roots sensitive to waterlogging.
Pollination Female plants only are needed for cone production — male plants are not required and are not sold for home brewing use.
First Cones Small crop possible in year 1; meaningful harvest in year 2; full production in year 3 onward.
Annual Growth Bines die back to the ground each winter and regrow from the perennial crown. Annual bine growth 15–25 ft; up to 12 in./day at peak. Support 14–18 ft minimum.
Harvest Late summer to early fall; late August through September in most PNW locations. Cones ready when papery, dry to touch, and strongly aromatic.
Longevity Perennial crown lives 20–35 years; bines die back annually. A well-sited hop planting is a long-term garden feature.
Growing difficulty Easy — vigorous in PNW; needs vertical climb space

Why grow hops?

Hops (Humulus lupulus) are the cone-shaped flowers of a perennial herbaceous climbing plant grown worldwide for their essential role in beer brewing. The Pacific Northwest — particularly the Willamette Valley in Oregon and the Yakima Valley in Washington — produces approximately 96% of US hop supply and roughly 40% of the global total, making this a genuinely native crop for many Raintree customers (BeerSmith; Indie Hops). For home brewers, growing your own hops is a meaningful connection to the brewing process — whole fresh-cone "wet hop" ales, made immediately after harvest, have a vivid herbal character that dried or pelletized hops cannot replicate.

Beyond brewing, hops have a long history of medicinal use: as a mild sedative and sleep aid, for tension and irritability, and as a general calming botanical. The young spring shoots are edible and have been cooked as a vegetable in European tradition for centuries. Ornamentally, hops are strikingly vigorous — they cover a fence, arbor, or trellis with bold tropical-looking foliage at a rate few plants can match. Golden and purple foliage varieties are genuinely ornamental even without brewing value.

The hop plant is technically a bine, not a vine. Bines climb by wrapping their stems clockwise around a supporting structure using stiff, hooked hairs — they do not use tendrils or suckers. This distinction matters when choosing support structures: hops need something they can wrap around, such as twine, thin wire, or a post, rather than a smooth flat surface (OSU Extension EM-9115; Cornell Cooperative Extension).

ℹ Hops are dioecious — only female plants produce cones

The hop plant has separate male and female individuals. Only female plants produce the cone-shaped flowers (strobiles) used in brewing and herbal applications. Male plants are not needed for cone production — females produce cones without pollination, and unpollinated cones are actually preferred for brewing, as seeded cones have lower alpha acid quality. All Raintree hop rhizomes are female. (Cornell Cooperative Extension; OSU Extension EM-9115)

Climate and latitude — why location matters

Hops have an unusual sensitivity to day length. The transition from vegetative growth to cone production is triggered by shortening days — bines stop growing vertically and begin forming cones when day length drops in response to summer solstice. For this reason, hop production is largely limited to latitudes between 35° and 55° — a band that includes most of the continental US but excludes the Deep South and most of Florida, and produces diminishing results as you approach the southern limit (Cornell Cooperative Extension; OSU Extension EM-9115; UF/IFAS Extension).

At the southern edge of this range (roughly Zone 8–9, latitude ~35°), hops can grow but typically produce lighter cone yields than at higher latitudes where days are longer in summer. At Raintree's location in western Washington (latitude ~46°N), conditions are among the most favorable in the US for home hop production.

Hops also require a period of winter dormancy with cold temperatures — roots need approximately 1–2 months below 40°F to break dormancy cleanly in spring (MSU Extension). Growers in mild-winter climates at the lower end of the latitude range may find spring emergence uneven without sufficient winter chill.

Pacific Northwest tip

Western WA and OR are ideal for home hop growing — the long summer days, mild winters, and summer dry periods that suppress foliar disease are essentially the same conditions that make Yakima and the Willamette Valley the world's premier hop regions. Varieties developed for the PNW (Cascade, Willamette, Centennial, Chinook) thrive here. Plan your trellis on a south- or southwest-facing run for maximum sun exposure.

Choosing varieties

Hop varieties are broadly classified into three categories: bittering, aroma, and dual-purpose. Choose based on your intended use. Bittering varieties have high alpha acid content that imparts bitterness to beer; aroma varieties provide fragrance and flavor complexity; dual-purpose varieties contribute both. Ornamental varieties are grown primarily for striking foliage.

The following are among the most widely available and best-performing varieties for home growers in the PNW and across the US. All are female and produce cones without a male plant.

Variety Use Flavor/Aroma profile Notes
Cascade Dual-purpose Floral, citrus (grapefruit), pine resin. The defining American craft beer hop. Developed by the USDA hop breeding program at Oregon State University; first released 1972. The most widely grown home brew hop in the US. Vigorous, high-yielding, and well-adapted to the PNW. Alpha acids: 4.5–8%. Classic showcase: Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Anchor Liberty Ale.
Centennial Dual-purpose Floral, citrus (lemon, orange), pine. Often described as a "super Cascade" with higher alpha acid levels. Developed by WSU/USDA; released 1990. Higher alpha acid content than Cascade (9.5–11.5%), making it useful for both bittering additions and late aroma additions. Very high cone yields in the PNW. Classic showcase: Bell's Two Hearted IPA, Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale.
Chinook Bittering Piney, resinous, grapefruit. Pungent, assertive character. Released by USDA in 1985; developed in Washington State. High alpha acid (12–14%); primarily a bittering hop but contributes distinctive piney resin character in dry-hop applications. Well-suited to the PNW. Good cone yields.
Willamette Aroma Earthy, herbal, floral, mild spice. Traditional English-style hop character. An American derivative of Fuggle; the most widely grown aroma hop in the US. Lower alpha acids (4–6%); used primarily in late kettle additions, dry hopping, and traditional English and American ales. Excellent PNW performer; named for Oregon's Willamette Valley.
Nugget Bittering Herbal, earthy, mild spice. Clean bitterness. High alpha acid (12–14%); reliable and consistent bittering hop. Vigorous grower with high cone yields. A practical choice for brewers focused on clean, high-gravity bittering without assertive aroma character.
Mt. Hood Aroma Mild, herbal, floral, slight spice. Similar to Hallertau noble hops. Developed to produce continental-style noble hop character in a US-adapted plant. Good choice for lagers, wheat beers, and continental-style ales. Moderate alpha acids (4–8%); well-adapted to PNW conditions.
Aureus (Golden Hops) Ornamental Golden-yellow foliage; cones usable for brewing but vine grown primarily for visual effect. A striking ornamental variety with bright chartreuse-gold foliage through the growing season. Vigorous climber; provides dramatic color on a trellis, arbor, or fence. Cones are mildly aromatic and can be used in brewing, but cone yields are typically lighter than standard brewing varieties.
ℹ Rhizomes vs. potted plants — timing matters

Hops are propagated from rhizomes (underground root cuttings) or potted crowns. Rhizomes are available for a short window in early spring (typically March–April) and should be planted promptly — refrigerate in a plastic bag at 35–40°F if you cannot plant immediately. Potted plants offer a wider planting window through spring and early summer. In year 1, focus on root establishment: minimize the bine height in the first season to no more than 4–5 feet so the plant directs energy into building root depth. Do not remove foliage in year 1, as the leaves produce the carbohydrates stored in the crown for following seasons (OSU Extension EM-9115).

Site selection and soil

Choosing a site

Hops require full sun — a minimum of 8 hours of direct sunlight for maximum cone production, with a south or southwest orientation strongly preferred (OSU Extension; UC Master Gardeners). The site must also have adequate vertical clearance: bines need a minimum of 14–15 feet of climbing height for meaningful cone production. Bines kept below 10 feet produce bunched shoots that are highly susceptible to mildew (Gardening Know How).

Consider the support structure before choosing a site. Good options include runs of twine hung from a tall post or ridgepole, a south-facing house eave with strings to the ground, a flagpole with attached lines, or a purpose-built hop trellis. Plant near the intended support — hops grow too vigorously to be trained far from their climbing anchor.

Soil requirements

Hops grow best in well-drained, deep, sandy loam soils. The MSU Extension recommends pH approximately 6.5; Cornell Cooperative Extension places the optimal range at 6.0–7.0. Poorly drained, compacted, strongly alkaline, or saline soils should be avoided — hop roots are particularly sensitive to low oxygen in the soil, which occurs when drainage is poor. This sensitivity is greatest in the first 2–3 years of establishment (Raintree Nursery; Cornell Cooperative Extension).

Improve the planting area by working compost, aged manure, or other organic matter into the top 8–12 inches of soil. A deep, fertile soil supports the extensive root system that develops over time — hop roots can penetrate 15 feet or more into the soil on well-established plants.

Spacing

Situation Spacing Notes
Same variety 3 ft apart Plants of the same variety can be spaced closer; their growth will intermingle without negatively affecting production
Different varieties 5 ft apart Separate varieties need more space to prevent bines from tangling and varieties from mixing (Cornell Cooperative Extension)
Row spacing 10–12 ft between rows Allows adequate light penetration to lateral branches where cones form
Pacific Northwest tip

Western WA and OR soils are often in the acceptable pH range for hops — test before amending. The wet PNW winters mean drainage is critical: avoid low spots or heavy clay soils without amendment. A raised planting mound 6–12 inches above grade significantly improves drainage on marginal soils and encourages the deep root development that makes established hops drought-tolerant through dry PNW summers.

Planting

Plant rhizomes in early spring after danger of hard frost has passed and soil is workable — typically March through April in the PNW. Dig a hole at least 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide; rhizomes can be planted horizontally or vertically with buds pointing upward, covered with 1 inch of loose soil. Potted crown plants should be set at the same depth as in the container, with the crown at soil level.

If planting multiple hills, use the spacing guidelines in the table above. Mark each planting clearly — hop crowns are underground and easy to forget or inadvertently damage before shoots emerge.

Apply 1–2 inches of mulch over the planting area immediately after planting to conserve moisture and moderate soil temperature. Water deeply after planting; keep soil consistently moist for the first several weeks as roots establish. Install the trellis or hanging twines before or at planting — by mid-spring, bines can grow 4–6 inches per day and the window for easy installation closes quickly.

Trellis and support

A strong, tall support structure is the single most important infrastructure investment for home hop growing. Bines reaching 20–25 feet with heavy cone loads can weigh 20–25 pounds per plant — supports must be both tall and sturdy. Build this before or at planting time.

Common home hop trellis options
ground level Post + twines 14–18 ft post House eave South-facing ideal Flagpole 4–6 bines per pole 14–18 ft height

For all systems, use jute twine or similar biodegradable material — this makes end-of-season cleanup easier when bines are cut down. Attach twine to the top support and use ground stakes or ground anchors at the base near each crown. As shoots emerge and reach 1 foot in height, begin training — wind the strongest 3–5 bines per crown clockwise around the twine. Remove excess shoots at the base, selecting the strongest for training (OSU Extension EM-9115; UC Master Gardeners).

In year 2 and beyond, cut all bines to ground level in spring when the first shoots emerge to 2 feet — this encourages robust regrowth and improves overall plant health and yield (UC Master Gardeners). Select 5–6 of the strongest new bines to train; remove the rest.

Year 1 Establishment Focus on roots; limit bine height to ~4–5 ft on a short stake; do not prune foliage; small or no cone crop expected
Year 2 First real crop Cut all bines to ground when 2 ft tall in spring; train 5–6 strongest bines clockwise up full-height twines; meaningful cone harvest
Year 3+ Full production Same spring cut-back; same training; summer lateral pruning to remove non-productive lower growth and improve air circulation
Summer In-season management Remove lowest 3–4 ft of foliage once bines reach trellis top to improve airflow and reduce disease; remove any diseased leaves

Watering and feeding

Hops are moderately drought-tolerant once established, but require consistent moisture during establishment years and during the critical cone-development and sizing window in mid to late summer. Target approximately 1–1.5 inches of water per week over the root zone during the growing season. Hop roots are particularly sensitive to oxygen deprivation from waterlogged soil; avoid overwatering or poorly drained sites, especially in the first 2–3 years (Raintree Nursery; OSU Extension).

Drip irrigation at the crown is ideal — it delivers water to the root zone while keeping foliage dry, reducing disease pressure from powdery mildew and downy mildew. In the PNW, spring rainfall typically covers irrigation through June; supplemental irrigation from July through harvest is important in dry summers.

Hops are heavy nitrogen feeders at full production. MSU Extension recommends approximately 150 lb of actual nitrogen per acre for mature plants (roughly 0.33 lb per 100 sq ft). For home growers, a practical approach is to apply a balanced all-purpose fertilizer or 2–3 inches of well-rotted compost over the root zone in early spring, with a split application at bud emergence and again when bines are 2–3 feet tall. Switch to a lower-nitrogen formulation once cones begin to form. Avoid nitrogen applications after early July, which can encourage late-season soft growth susceptible to disease and winter damage (MSU Extension).

Harvest and drying

Hops are ready for harvest in late summer to early fall — late August through September in most PNW locations. The correct harvest window is narrow: underripe cones lack developed acids and oils; overripe cones drop lupulin (the golden powder inside cones that contains the brewing compounds) and deteriorate quickly. Harvest timing is by feel and smell, not calendar date.

A ripe cone is papery and dry to the touch, springs back when compressed and released, feels light for its size, has a strong aromatic smell with no vegetal or green notes, and has a yellow-gold lupulin powder visible when you split one open. Cones that are soft, heavy, or wet are not ready. Harvest by hand-picking individual ripe cones, or cut the entire bine from the trellis when the majority are ripe and pick from ground level (MSU Extension).

⚠ Fresh-hop vs. dried hops — two very different products

Fresh ("wet") hops harvested directly from the bine contain approximately 80% moisture and must be used within 24–48 hours before they mold. Fresh-hop ales brewed on harvest day capture vivid, intensely herbaceous flavors impossible to replicate with dried hops. For storage, dry your hops to 8–10% moisture — spread cones in a single layer on a screen in a warm, airy space out of direct sun, or use a food dehydrator at temperatures below 140°F. At higher temperatures, essential oils that carry aroma and flavor volatilize. Properly dried hops can be vacuum-sealed and frozen for 1–2 years (MSU Extension).

Wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting — hop bines and cones have stiff hooked hairs that cause skin irritation with extended contact. After harvest, cut bines to the ground, compost them (do not compost diseased material), and clean up fallen cone debris to reduce disease overwintering (MSU Extension).

Pacific Northwest tip

The PNW is home to a thriving wet-hop brewing tradition every September, with numerous craft breweries in WA and OR specifically seeking freshly harvested whole cones for harvest-day brewing. Home growers often have more fresh hops than they can personally use — consider connecting with local homebrew clubs or craft breweries who actively seek wet hops in harvest season. Washington State University Extension has resources on commercial-scale hop production for growers considering expanding beyond the home garden.

Growing in containers

Hops can be grown in large containers, though yields will be lower than in-ground plants and the vigorous root system will be constrained. Use a minimum 20-gallon container with excellent drainage. Fill with a quality potting mix amended with compost; do not use garden soil. Provide a sturdy 10–14 ft support structure — even container-grown bines will reach for height. Water more frequently than in-ground plants; containers dry out quickly in summer heat. Apply slow-release balanced fertilizer in spring and early summer.

In Zone 6 and colder, container crowns have no soil insulation — move pots to an unheated but frost-protected structure in winter once bines have died back. Crowns are hardy but container roots do not have the thermal mass of in-ground soil to buffer against hard freezes.

Common problems

Downy Mildew (Pseudoperonospora humuli) High — primary hop disease

The most serious disease problem for hops. Infected bines emerge in spring as stunted, silvery, rigid "spike shoots" from infected crowns. Later-season symptoms include brown angular leaf spots, infected flower clusters that shrivel and dry, and brown, deteriorated cones. The pathogen overwinters in infected crowns and soil debris and is favored by wet, foggy weather — conditions common in the PNW in spring.

  • Remove and destroy infected spike shoots immediately on detection — do not compost
  • Remove and burn any infected crowns and surrounding soil; do not replant hops in that location for several years
  • Sulfur-based fungicide sprays applied preventively in wet springs; consult your local cooperative extension office for current strain-specific recommendations — some strains are resistant to certain chemicals (OSU Extension; Cornell Cooperative Extension)
  • Remove lower foliage to 3–4 ft above ground after bines are established to improve air circulation
  • Choose resistant varieties where available
Powdery Mildew (Podosphaera macularis) High — in warm, humid conditions

White powdery coating on young shoots, leaves, and cones. New shoots in spring may be entirely white ("flag shoots") which produce spores that initiate secondary infections. Infected cones are unmarketable and produce off-flavors in beer. Powdery mildew grows across a wide temperature range (54–85°F) and can resume growth after temperature extremes. Susceptibility is increased by excess nitrogen and dense canopy.

Powdery mildew — a white, powdery fungal coating on young leaves and shoots in warm, humid spells (shown on apple; the same mildew affects hops). Photo: megachile (CC0 1.0 (public domain)), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.

  • Reduce early-season inoculum by removing infected flag shoots immediately
  • Maintain adequate but not excessive nitrogen — overfertilization produces succulent tissue more susceptible to infection
  • Remove lower foliage to improve air circulation through the lower canopy
  • Potassium bicarbonate, sulfur-based fungicides, and summer-weight spray oils are effective; apply per label and rotate modes of action (Cornell Cooperative Extension)
  • Select resistant varieties; Cascade and Willamette show moderate resistance compared to some susceptible varieties
Spider Mites Moderate — hot dry conditions

Tiny moving dots on webbing, particularly on undersides of leaves and around new shoot tips. Yellow stippling pattern on the upper leaf surface. Mite populations build rapidly during hot, dry weather and when natural predators are disrupted by pesticide use.

  • Maintain consistent irrigation — water-stressed bines are far more susceptible to mite damage
  • Insecticidal soap spray or soap-oil mix for active infestations; apply to undersides of leaves
  • Encourage predatory insects by minimizing broad-spectrum pesticide use
  • Dormant oil applied to the crown area in early spring reduces overwintering mite egg populations
Hop Aphid (Phorodon humuli) Moderate — monitor in late spring

Pale yellowish-green wingless aphids; winged greenish-to-black forms migrate to hops in May or June from prunus hosts (peach, plum, cherry). Feed on plant juices and contaminate cones with their presence — aphid-infested cones are undesirable for brewing. Honeydew from aphid feeding promotes sooty mold.

  • Insecticidal soap sprays; predatory insects (ladybeetles, parasitic wasps) provide natural control if not disrupted
  • Control ants around the bine base — ants protect aphid colonies from natural predators
  • Strong water spray dislodges colonies from shoots and leaves
  • Monitor for winged forms arriving in May–June from nearby prunus trees
Verticillium Wilt High — no chemical control; requires removal

A soil-borne fungal disease causing yellowing, wilting, and browning of leaves, often on one side of the bine first. Brown discoloration inside the stem visible when cut diagonally. Symptoms may vary year to year — an infected plant may appear healthy for one season, then symptomatic the next. The fungus persists in soil for many years. Uncommon in the PNW but established in eastern US hop regions (Cornell Cooperative Extension).

  • No effective chemical controls exist for an established infection
  • Remove infected plants and surrounding soil; do not replant hops in that location
  • Do not move soil or tools from infected areas to clean areas
  • Contact your local cooperative extension office if this disease is suspected — diagnosis should be confirmed before removing a planting

Seasonal care calendar

Winter Dec - Feb
  • Bines are fully dormant — perennial crown is underground and hardy to approximately −20°F
  • Plan and build or repair trellis; replace worn twines; inspect posts for rot or damage
  • Apply fresh mulch over crowns to insulate against freeze-thaw cycles in colder regions
  • Order rhizomes early — popular varieties sell out quickly in February and March
Early Spring Mar - Apr
  • Apply balanced fertilizer or compost over root zone before growth emerges
  • Watch for first shoots; in year 2+, cut all emerging bines to ground when they reach 2 ft to encourage vigorous regrowth
  • Plant new rhizomes once soil is workable and frost danger has passed; install trellis twines immediately
  • Monitor for downy mildew spike shoots on emerging growth — remove and destroy on sight
Pacific Northwest

PNW springs are wet and cool — ideal downy mildew conditions. Scout closely in April–May and act immediately on any infected shoots. Begin preventive copper or sulfur sprays if downy mildew has been a prior-season problem.

Late Spring – Early Summer May - Jun
  • Train 5–6 strongest bines clockwise up twines; remove remaining bines at the crown to reduce disease pressure and focus plant energy
  • Monitor for hop aphid arrival (May–June); apply insecticidal soap if detected on young shoots
  • Begin supplemental irrigation if spring rains taper; bines are growing rapidly and moisture demand is high
  • Once bines reach trellis height, remove lowest 3–4 ft of foliage to improve airflow and reduce downy and powdery mildew pressure
Summer — Cones form Jul - Aug
  • Bines stop growing vertically after solstice and begin producing lateral arms with cone flowers; continue deep watering through this critical cone development window
  • Monitor cones for maturity — papery, aromatic, light, spring-back texture; sample every few days from late July onward
  • Watch for spider mites in hot, dry spells; check undersides of leaves for stippling or webbing
  • Apply second split-fertilizer application if growth indicates deficiency; stop nitrogen after early July
Harvest Late Aug – Sep
  • Harvest ripe cones — papery, dry, strongly aromatic, golden lupulin visible inside when split open
  • Dry harvested cones to 8–10% moisture on screens or in dehydrator below 140°F
  • Use fresh ("wet") hops for brewing within 24–48 hours of harvest
  • Cut bines to ground after harvest; compost clean material; dispose of diseased material
  • Vacuum-seal and freeze dried hops for long-term storage
Fall – Pre-winter Oct – Nov
  • Clear all bine debris from around crowns to reduce disease overwintering
  • Apply fresh mulch over crowns before hard freeze in colder climates (Zones 4–5)
  • Evaluate trellis condition before winter; repair or replace posts, cables, or hardware now while the site is clear
  • Brew with or share your dried or fresh hops!

New to growing?

Start here ↗

Beginner's quick start

  • Only female plants produce cones — all Raintree rhizomes are female; no male plant needed
  • Choose variety by intended use: brewing (bittering, aroma, or dual-purpose) or ornamental
  • Hops are bines, not vines — they climb by wrapping clockwise around twine or string
  • Build a 14–18 ft trellis before or at planting; twine from a high point to a ground stake works well
  • Plant rhizomes in early spring; focus on root establishment in year 1; limit bine height to 4–5 ft
  • In year 2+, cut all bines to ground when 2 ft tall in spring, then train 5–6 strongest clockwise up twines
  • Soil pH 6.0–7.0; well-drained sandy loam; never waterlogged
  • Water deeply once or twice a week; never lightly each day
  • Watch for downy mildew spike shoots in wet PNW springs — remove immediately
  • Harvest when cones are papery, dry, light, strongly aromatic, and spring back when squeezed
  • Dry to 8–10% moisture below 140°F; freeze for long storage

Varieties by use

Dual-purpose
Cascade ★ Centennial
Bittering
Chinook Nugget
Aroma
Willamette Mt. Hood
Ornamental
Aureus (Golden)

Harvest readiness checklist

  • Feel: Papery; dry to the touch; springs back when gently squeezed
  • Weight: Light for its size — heavy cones are not yet dry
  • Aroma: Strong, complex hop character — not green or vegetal
  • Color: Light green to yellow-green; tips may show slight browning
  • Lupulin: Cut a cone open — yellow-gold powder visible inside
  • Timeline: Check every few days from late August; window is typically 1–2 weeks wide

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Authored by

Raintree Nursery in partnership with Jason Adams and the WSU Lewis County Master Gardener Program