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Raintree Growing Guide

Jostaberry

A thornless hybrid of blackcurrant and gooseberry that combines the best of both parents — complex, deep flavor; disease resistance; cold hardiness to −40°F; and productive yields with almost no care. One of the most rewarding and underplanted berry bushes for northern gardens.

AT A GLANCE

SUN Full sun to light shade; full sun produces best yields and flavor
USDA ZONES Zones 3–8; hardy to −40°F (Gardening Know How; RHS)
Soil pH 6.0–6.8; fertile, moisture-retentive, well-drained (PlotMyGarden)
Pollination Self-fertile — one plant can bear fruit; yields increase with cross-pollination
Mature Size 5–8 ft tall and wide; upright, vigorous habit (RHS; BBC Gardeners World)
Thorns Thornless — a key advantage over gooseberry parents
Harvest Midsummer (July in most temperate climates); berries darken from red to near-black when ripe
Disease Resistance Resistant to white pine blister rust, powdery mildew, leaf spot, and gall mites (RHS)
Growing difficulty Easy — verify Ribes state restrictions before ordering

Why grow jostaberry?

Jostaberry (Ribes × nidigrolaria, pronounced "yosta-berry") is one of the most practically useful fruiting shrubs available to home growers in temperate climates — yet it remains far less planted than its qualities warrant. It is a complex hybrid developed in Germany over much of the twentieth century from three parent species: European gooseberry (R. uva-crispa), North American coastal black gooseberry (R. divaricatum), and blackcurrant (R. nigrum). The result is a plant that combines the best traits of its parents while leaving behind the worst.

From its gooseberry parents it inherited fruit size and a pleasant, refreshing tartness. From its blackcurrant parent it gained the deep, aromatic, musky flavor complexity that makes blackcurrants distinctive — and that the jostaberry possesses in its own right. Fully ripe berries are sweet-tart with a rich, layered flavor that is difficult to compare to anything else: broadly berry-like, deeply complex, and enjoyable both raw and cooked (PlotMyGarden). The berries are gooseberry-sized — larger than blackcurrants — and ripen from green to red to near-black at full maturity.

The practical advantages compound the flavor story. Jostaberry is thornless — unlike its prickly gooseberry parents, you can harvest bare-handed. It is vigorous and productive, bearing reliably within 2–3 years of planting. It is genuinely cold-hardy to −40°F. And it carries built-in resistance to several diseases that plague currants and gooseberries, including white pine blister rust, powdery mildew, and black currant gall mites (RHS; OSU Extension).

⚠ Ribes state planting restrictions — verify your state before ordering

Jostaberry is a Ribes hybrid and is subject to the same state-level planting restrictions that apply to currants and gooseberries. The restrictions exist because of white pine blister rust (Cronartium ribicola) — a fungal disease that uses Ribes species as an alternate host and can devastate eastern white pine populations. Federal restrictions were lifted in 1966, but several states still maintain their own bans, permit requirements, or species-specific restrictions:

  • Total ban (no Ribes allowed): currently very few states; check current rules — historically Maine, New Hampshire, and parts of New England have had broad bans
  • Permit required: Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New Jersey, Delaware, North Carolina, West Virginia, and parts of New York and Michigan have historically required permits or had county-specific restrictions
  • Black currant focus: most modern restrictions target R. nigrum specifically — but jostaberry's blackcurrant parentage means it may fall under the same rules in some jurisdictions even with its rust resistance

Although jostaberry has documented resistance to white pine blister rust, this resistance does not exempt it from state regulations. Restriction status varies by state and sometimes by county. Always verify with your state's Department of Agriculture or Cooperative Extension office before ordering. Raintree cannot ship Ribes plants to regulated states without proper authorization.

Site selection

Sun

Jostaberry produces best fruit in full sun — a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun daily (The Ultimate Homestead). It will grow and fruit in light shade but yields will be reduced and flavor less developed. Unlike some fruiting shrubs, jostaberry benefits from the warmth and light exposure of a south- or southwest-facing site, particularly in shorter-season northern climates where summer heat drives fruit sugar development.

Soil

Jostaberry prefers fertile, moisture-retentive, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0–6.8. It will grow in a wide range of soils, including clay and loam, provided drainage is adequate — it does not tolerate waterlogged or saturated soils for extended periods (RHS; PlotMyGarden). Improve clay soils with generous compost incorporation before planting. Sandy soils benefit from added organic matter to improve moisture retention. Annual compost top-dressing maintains soil health and provides a steady supply of nutrients without the risk of over-fertilization.

Spacing

Jostaberry is a vigorous shrub that can reach 5–8 feet tall and wide (BBC Gardeners World). Space plants 5–6 feet apart to allow good air circulation, which reduces disease pressure and makes harvest easier. Allow 8–10 feet between rows if planting multiples. A single well-sited plant in a home garden can provide a substantial harvest for a household.

💡 Pacific Northwest tip

The cool, moist PNW maritime climate suits jostaberry extremely well — it is the type of climate in which currants and gooseberries (its parents) have been cultivated for centuries in northern Europe. Good air circulation is important in our wet climate to reduce powdery mildew pressure, even though jostaberry has better mildew resistance than its parent species. In eastern WA and OR, mulch generously to retain summer moisture. In the maritime west, full sun siting improves fruit sugar development during our shorter warm season.

Pollination

Jostaberry is self-fertile — a single plant will produce fruit without a second plant nearby (RHS; BBC Gardeners World). This is a genuine advantage over many fruiting shrubs and makes jostaberry practical for small gardens with room for only one bush. However, like most self-fertile fruiting plants, cross-pollination between two plants of the same or related species typically improves fruit set and yields. If you have space, planting two jostaberry plants — or one jostaberry alongside a blackcurrant — will generally result in heavier crops.

Flowers appear in early spring, singly or in small clusters, and are attractive to bees and other early-season pollinators. Avoid applying any insecticides during the bloom period to protect pollinator activity.

âš  Protect flowers from late spring frost

Jostaberry blooms early — in late winter to early spring depending on your climate — and open flowers are frost-sensitive. A late frost during or just after bloom can damage or destroy the current season's crop on an otherwise healthy plant. In climates with variable late-spring frosts, site jostaberry in a location with good cold-air drainage (avoid frost pockets), or be prepared to cover plants with row cover fabric on nights when temperatures are forecast below 32°F during bloom. This is the most common cause of unexpected low yields in an otherwise healthy jostaberry (BBC Gardeners World).

Planting

Plant bareroot jostaberry in early spring while plants are still dormant, or in fall after the growing season ends. Container-grown plants can be planted any time the ground is workable, though spring and early fall establishment are most reliable. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball; backfill with the native soil amended with compost. Plant at the same depth as the plant was in the container or nursery, or up to 2 inches deeper to encourage additional rooting from the base of the stems.

After planting, water thoroughly and apply a 2–3 inch layer of compost, wood chips, or straw mulch over the root zone, keeping it pulled back a few inches from the crown. Mulching is particularly important in the first two seasons while roots establish. Water regularly — every 3–5 days in warm weather — during the first growing season. Once established, jostaberry is reasonably drought-tolerant but benefits from consistent moisture during fruiting.

Pruning and training

Jostaberry fruits on wood that is one year old and older — flower buds form on branches from the previous season's growth. This means you must retain a mix of 1-, 2-, and 3-year-old canes to maximize production, while removing the oldest (4+ year) canes that become less productive over time. The goal is a perpetually renewed bush with an open, non-congested center that allows good light penetration and air circulation.

Yr 1 Establishment Cut back by one-third at planting to encourage basal branching; minimal subsequent pruning
Yr 2-3 Building up Remove crossing or inward-growing shoots; thin to maintain open center; first productive crop expected
Yr 4+ Annual renewal Remove one-third of the oldest (3+ yr) canes to the base each winter; keep 8–10 well-spaced canes total
After harvest Optional RHS recommends pruning after harvest in summer for clear structural visibility; most home growers prune in winter

Prune in late winter during dormancy, before buds begin to swell. Use sharp, clean loppers or pruning shears — cutting through the thick canes of an established jostaberry bush requires quality tools. Cut the oldest canes cleanly at the base at ground level (PlotMyGarden; RHS). After pruning, the bush should have 8–10 well-spaced canes of varying ages (1-, 2-, and 3-year wood) remaining.

Avoid leaving stubs — cuts flush to the base or to a lateral branch heal cleanly and don't harbor disease. Remove any dead, diseased, or crossing wood as you go.

Watering and feeding

Consistent moisture is more important than volume for jostaberry. The goal is to keep the root zone evenly moist — neither saturated nor drying to dust — particularly through the fruiting period in early to midsummer. In the PNW, spring rainfall typically covers early-season needs; supplemental irrigation becomes important in July through harvest. In drier climates, mulching to conserve moisture and watering deeply once or twice a week is a reliable approach.

Fertilize in early spring with a balanced organic fertilizer (such as 5-5-5) or apply 2–3 inches of well-rotted compost as a top-dressing over the root zone before growth begins. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which encourages soft, vigorous growth that is more susceptible to aphid infestations and may reduce fruit set. A soil test every 2–3 years provides the most accurate picture of nutrient needs (PlotMyGarden). Potassium supports fruit quality in currant-family plants — a deficiency shows as leaf scorch around the margins.

Harvest

Jostaberries ripen in midsummer — typically July in most temperate US and PNW climates, though timing varies by location and year. Berries change color from green to red to dark purple-black as they ripen. They do not all ripen at once on a given plant; begin checking when the first berries turn dark and harvest in passes every few days as more ripen.

At full ripeness, jostaberries are dark red-black, slightly soft to the touch, and sweet-tart with full flavor development. Underripe berries are firmer and noticeably more tart; overripe berries are very soft and may begin to shrivel. Harvest by gently stripping individual berries from the cluster or snipping small fruit-bearing clusters with scissors.

Ripe jostaberries refrigerate well for 1–2 weeks. They freeze excellently — spread on a sheet tray to freeze individually before bagging, to prevent clumping. They make outstanding jams, jellies, pies, and juice; their complex flavor holds up well to cooking and intensifies with concentrated preparations.

💡 Protect from birds

Birds are strongly attracted to ripe jostaberries. Without protection, you may find the crop stripped within days of ripening. Lightweight bird netting draped over the bush before berries turn dark and staked to keep it off the fruit is the most effective protection. Remove netting after harvest to prevent trapping wildlife during the rest of the season.

Common problems

Birds High — protect ripe fruit

Birds — particularly robins, thrushes, and starlings — will consume ripe jostaberries quickly. This is the most common and impactful fruiting problem for most home growers.

  • Drape lightweight bird netting over bushes as berries begin to color
  • Stake netting away from the fruit to prevent birds from pecking through it
  • Remove netting after harvest
  • Harvest promptly as berries ripen — don't leave ripe fruit unprotected
Aphids Moderate — watch new growth

Currant aphids can colonize new shoot growth in late spring, causing leaf curl and distortion at shoot tips. More common in warm, dry springs; rarely threatens established plant health but can suppress new growth.

  • Natural predators — lady beetles, lacewings, and parasitic wasps — often provide adequate control if broad-spectrum pesticide use is minimized
  • Strong water spray dislodges aphids from affected shoot tips
  • Insecticidal soap for persistent infestations on young plants
  • Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, which produces soft growth that is more aphid-attractive
Powdery mildew Low — better resistance than parents

Jostaberry has markedly better powdery mildew resistance than gooseberry, but the disease can occasionally appear in hot, humid conditions or where air circulation is poor. Appears as white powdery coating on young leaves.

Powdery mildew — a white, powdery fungal coating spreads over young leaves and shoots in humid spells (shown on apple; the same mildew affects jostaberry, a currant–gooseberry hybrid). Photo: megachile (CC0 1.0 (public domain)), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.

  • Maintain good air circulation through annual pruning — an open-centered bush sheds humidity
  • Avoid overhead irrigation; water at soil level if possible
  • Remove and dispose of heavily affected shoots
  • In persistently humid climates, a potassium bicarbonate spray provides organic-approved suppression
Frost damage to flowers Moderate — early-blooming risk

Jostaberry blooms early and open flowers are frost-sensitive. A late frost during bloom can eliminate that year's crop from an otherwise healthy plant.

  • Site in areas with good cold-air drainage — avoid frost pockets
  • Row cover fabric draped over the plant before sunset on frost nights protects open flowers; remove when temperatures rise above freezing
  • South-facing walls or fences provide some warmth on marginal nights

Seasonal care calendar

Winter Dec - Feb
  • Annual dormant pruning — remove one-third of the oldest (3+ yr) canes at the base; remove dead, crossing, or inward-pointing growth; aim for 8–10 well-spaced canes
  • Plant bareroot jostaberry in late winter/early spring while dormant
  • Order or confirm plant orders early — jostaberry can be limited in availability
Early Spring Mar - Apr
  • Apply balanced organic fertilizer or 2–3 inches of compost top-dressing before growth begins
  • Restore mulch layer to 2–3 inches; keep back from the crown
  • Monitor overnight temperatures — cover with row cover fabric when frost is forecast at or below 32°F during bloom
  • Do not apply insecticides during bloom — protect early-season pollinators
Late Spring May - Jun
  • Monitor for aphids on new shoot growth; address with water spray or insecticidal soap if needed
  • Ensure consistent soil moisture as fruit begins to develop
  • Begin supplemental irrigation if spring rainfall diminishes
Summer — Harvest Jul - Aug
  • Install bird netting as berries begin to color
  • Harvest in passes every 3–5 days as berries ripen to dark red-black; handle gently
  • Refrigerate or freeze harvested berries promptly
  • Maintain irrigation through harvest — consistent moisture improves fruit size and flavor
  • Optional: prune after harvest while summer structure is visible (RHS recommendation)
Fall Sep - Nev
  • Plant container-grown jostaberry in early fall (September–October) for fall establishment
  • Continue irrigation until the first hard freeze if fall is dry
  • Enjoy fall foliage color — jostaberry turns yellow-orange in fall before leaf drop
Late Fall – Early Winter Nov - Dec
  • Apply fresh 2–3 inch mulch over root zone after ground cools; keep back from crown
  • Order new plants early if expanding the planting
  • Prepare pruning tools; plan dormant pruning for late winter

New to growing?

Start here ↗

Beginner's quick start

  • Self-fertile — one plant produces fruit; two plants produce more
  • Thornless — hand-harvest without protection
  • Hardy to −40°F in Zones 3–8
  • Full sun to light shade; full sun gives best yields
  • Fertile, well-drained soil; pH 6.0–6.8
  • Check state Ribes planting regulations before ordering
  • Annual renewal pruning: remove oldest one-third of canes each winter
  • Protect flowers from late frosts — blooms early in spring
  • Bird netting essential as berries ripen
  • Harvest in midsummer when berries turn dark red-black; berries do not all ripen at once
  • Excellent fresh, frozen, or processed into jam and juice

Name note

Jostaberry is pronounced "YO-sta-berry" — the "J" reflects the German origin, where J is pronounced like English Y. The name combines "Johannisbeere" (German for blackcurrant) and "Stachelbeere" (German for gooseberry).

Flavor profile

Ripe jostaberries combine the deep, musky intensity of blackcurrant with a refreshing gooseberry tartness. Complex and aromatic — significantly more interesting than either parent alone. Best uses: fresh eating, jam, jelly, pie, juice, and as a blending berry in mixed-fruit preparations.

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Authored by

Raintree Nursery in partnership with Jason Adams and the WSU Lewis County Master Gardener Program