Ornamentals
Flowering quince, hydrangeas, pieris, wisteria, fuchsia, forsythia, and more — the shrubs, vines, and groundcovers that bring structure, color, and fragrance to the spaces between your edibles. Many do double duty: stunning blooms and edible or ecologically valuable fruit.
At a glance — ornamentals collection
Ornamentals at Raintree
Raintree has been selecting fruit plants for flavor and ease of growing since 1972 — and the ornamentals collection reflects the same philosophy. Every ornamental in the catalog earns its place on more than looks alone. Flowering quinces are edible ornamentals that deliver both breathtaking early-spring bloom and fruit with enough natural pectin for outstanding jellies and syrups. Hardy fuchsias produce edible berries alongside their showstopping flowers. Salal is a PNW native with edible berries and year-round evergreen structure. Wisteria, hydrangeas, and pieris make the garden beautiful across seasons while supporting bees and other pollinators with the kind of reliable bloom that a fruit-only planting can't provide.
The ornamentals also solve a real practical problem in the home orchard: providing bloom when fruit trees aren't flowering, supporting pollinators throughout the season rather than only during apple or cherry bloom, and creating structure and visual interest in the spaces between productive plants. A forsythia blazing yellow before any tree is awake, or a flowering quince blanketed in coral blooms in February — these are the first reliable signs of spring for bees, and for the gardener.
The single most important care decision for flowering shrubs is pruning at the correct time. Most ornamental shrubs bloom on the previous season's wood ("old wood"), and pruning them at the wrong time of year removes exactly the wood that carries next spring's flower buds. Knowing which plant blooms on old wood and which blooms on new wood is the difference between a shrub that blooms every year and one that is healthy but perpetually flowerless.
Flowering quince — Chaenomeles spp.
Flowering quince is among the most adaptable, low-maintenance flowering shrubs available to home gardeners. It is also one of the earliest bloomers in the garden: in mild climates, flowers often open in February on completely bare stems, making it a critical early food source for bees and the first burst of color in the garden after winter. In colder zones, bloom arrives from late February through April. The flowers themselves are strikingly beautiful — produced in dense clusters of five-petaled blooms ranging from white and cream to soft salmon, apricot, vivid red, and bicolored combinations. Several varieties carry double flowers that rival a small rose in their complexity.
Flowering quince also produces small, hard, fragrant fruit in fall — aromatic yellow-green quinces with a high pectin content that makes them ideal for jelly, syrup, and preserves. The flavor is tart and astringent raw but sweet and intensely quince-floral when cooked. Plant two varieties for heavier fruit yields, though a single plant will produce some fruit. Note that flowering quince (Chaenomeles spp.) is a distinct genus from fruiting quince (Cydonia oblonga) and does not cross-pollinate with it.
Branches cut in late winter, before the buds open, can be brought indoors and forced into bloom in a vase of water — a welcome burst of spring color weeks ahead of the outdoor bloom window.
Site and soil
Flowering quince thrives in full sun and will produce the most abundant bloom in a site that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. It tolerates partial shade but flower count diminishes noticeably as light decreases. These shrubs are adaptable to a wide range of soil types including clay, loam, and sandy soils, provided drainage is adequate — they do not tolerate waterlogged roots. Soil pH between 5.0 and 7.0 is acceptable; they do best in slightly acidic to neutral soil. Consistent soggy soil will cause decline, but once established they are remarkably drought-tolerant.
Flowering quince is exceptionally well-suited to the PNW. The mild winters allow bloom as early as late January in the Willamette Valley. Branches can be forced indoors starting in January. The naturally moderate PNW summer moisture keeps established shrubs healthy without irrigation — though young plants in their first season should be watered regularly. Flowering quince makes an excellent thorny security hedge: plant varieties like 'Victory' or 'Old Homestead' about 5 feet apart along a fence line for a dense, impenetrable, spectacularly blooming barrier.
Pruning — timing is everything
Flowering quince blooms on old wood — the previous season's canes — so the pruning window is narrow and specific. Prune immediately after the flowers fade in spring, before the plant puts significant energy into new growth. Pruning at any other time of year — including in fall or winter — removes the flower buds that are already formed on the wood and results in little or no bloom the following spring. Annual light pruning after bloom keeps the shrub open and productive; avoid severe pruning, which reduces vigor and delays blooming recovery. Remove old, crowded, or crossing stems to improve air circulation and encourage the vigorous new canes that will carry next year's flowers.
Unlike fruiting plants, flowering quince does not require precision training. It grows as a multi-stemmed shrub and can be shaped lightly for aesthetics or allowed to develop naturally into a mounding form. The thorny, dense habit makes it an excellent informal hedge with minimal management.
Most Chaenomeles speciosa varieties have significant thorns — sharp and dense enough to make the shrub an effective security hedge or barrier planting, but also an inconvenience in high-traffic foot paths or near children's play areas. The variety 'Cameo' is an important exception: it is nearly thornless, making it the better choice for planting near walkways, entries, or areas where contact is likely. 'Super Fusion' (C. x superba) has pronounced thorns and a very low, spreading habit suited to slopes and banks.
Flowering quince varieties at Raintree
| Variety | Type | Flower | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old Homestead Raintree Selection | C. speciosa | Salmon-pink, single | A Raintree original — propagated from cuttings taken at a long-abandoned homestead. A proven, tough workhorse with reliable bloom and good fruit production. Branches force beautifully indoors in late winter. Great hedge variety. Zones 5–9. |
| Victory | C. speciosa | Crimson-red, single | Bold, vivid red flowers in early spring; one of the most striking landscape performers. Good fruit production; pairs well with any other speciosa variety for cross-pollination. Thorny; excellent for hedges. Zones 5–9. |
| Cameo | C. speciosa | Soft apricot-pink, double | Standout for its delicate, rose-like double flowers in soft apricot and pink. Nearly thornless and compact — 4 ft tall and wide — making it the best choice near walkways or entries. Produces small quinces prized for jelly. Zones 5–9. |
| Toyo Nishiki | C. speciosa | White, pink, and magenta — mixed on same branch | A Japanese selection with a remarkable multi-color display: white, pink, and magenta flowers can appear simultaneously on the same branch. Branches force well for late-winter indoor arrangements. Thorny; effective hedge. Zones 5–9. |
| Double Take Peach™ | C. speciosa | Peach-orange, fully double; no thorns | Part of the acclaimed Double Take® series — fully double, rose-like blooms in warm peach-orange. Thornless; no fruit (sterile flowers). Selected for pure ornamental impact with none of the thorns. PP#30,231. Zones 5–9. |
| Double Take Eternal White™ | C. speciosa | Pure white, fully double; no thorns | Striking fully double white flowers. Thornless. No fruit (sterile). Vigorous grower with exceptional spring presence. USPP 35,018. Zones 5–9. |
| Super Fusion | C. x superba | Carmine-red, single | An unusually low, wide-spreading form — 1–2 ft tall and 8–10 ft wide — developed as a seedling of 'Crimson and Gold'. Bowl-shaped carmine flowers with gold anthers. Excellent for slopes, banks, and ground-covering plantings. Large thorns. Good fruit. Zones 5–9. |
| Cathay Flowering Quince | C. cathayensis | Pink-white, single | Also known as Pseudocydonia cathayensis. The largest-fruited of the flowering quinces — fruit approaching the size of culinary quince. Tall, upright shrub to 10 ft. Distinguished by peeling ornamental bark with age. Excellent for jelly and preserves. Zones 5–9. |
Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are among the most beloved flowering shrubs in the temperate garden — reliably spectacular, long-blooming, and available in forms ranging from the compact and container-friendly to large, bold landscape specimens. Raintree carries selections chosen for performance in the Pacific Northwest and the broader temperate US, with emphasis on rebloomers that flower on both old and new wood, giving gardeners far more reliability than older hydrangea selections that depend entirely on carrying buds through winter intact.
Bigleaf hydrangea — Hydrangea macrophylla
Bigleaf hydrangea is the classic garden hydrangea — the one with the large, rounded mophead or lacecap blooms in shades of pink, blue, or crimson. It grows in full sun to part shade; in the PNW and in northern zones, full sun is well-tolerated and helps ripen wood for better hardiness. In southern exposures or hotter climates, afternoon shade prevents flower and leaf scorch. Bigleaf hydrangea requires consistent moisture — do not allow soil to dry out completely during the growing season. Soil should be organically rich and well-drained. pH matters for flower color: acidic soils (pH below 6) tend toward blue or lavender shades; more alkaline soils produce pink to crimson.
The flower color of Hydrangea macrophylla is influenced by aluminum availability in the soil, which is governed by pH. In acidic soil (pH below 6.0), aluminum is more available to the plant, shifting flower color toward blue and lavender. In more neutral or alkaline soil, the same plant will produce pink to crimson flowers. A single Cherry Explosion™ plant may display different color intensities depending on where it is planted in your garden. To encourage blue tones, apply aluminum sulfate to lower soil pH; to maintain pink, keep soil pH closer to neutral. This is an aesthetic choice — plant health is not affected by color variation.
Oakleaf hydrangea — Hydrangea quercifolia
A North American native with exceptional year-round garden value: large, cone-shaped white flower clusters in summer that dry to parchment-tan and persist through fall and winter; striking deeply-lobed oak-shaped leaves that turn bronze-red in fall; and attractive exfoliating bark on mature stems. More drought-tolerant and shade-tolerant than bigleaf hydrangea; blooms on old wood, so prune immediately after flowering. Hardy to Zone 5 without special protection.
Pruning hydrangeas — the rule that changes by type
The most common hydrangea mistake is pruning at the wrong time. Bigleaf hydrangeas that bloom on old wood should be pruned immediately after bloom in summer. Reblooming varieties like Cherry Explosionâ„¢ that also flower on new wood offer more flexibility but still benefit from old wood preservation. Deadhead spent flowers in spring to clean up shape rather than cutting into live old wood. Oakleaf hydrangea blooms on old wood and should also be pruned only after bloom.
Hydrangea varieties at Raintree
| Variety | Type | Flower | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cherry Explosion™ ('McKay' PP 28,757) | H. macrophylla | Cherry-red lacecap florets; pink fertile center flowers | Exceptionally hardy macrophylla selected by McKay Nursery in Wisconsin — one of the few bigleaf hydrangeas rated to Zone 4. Cherry-red lacecap flowers are among the most vivid reds available in this species. Rebloom on both old and new wood. Compact rounded form, approximately 3–4 ft; excellent in containers. Fall foliage turns burgundy. Flower color shifts lavender in acidic soil. Zones 4–9. |
| Ruby Slipper | H. quercifolia | White aging to rose-pink; cone-shaped | A compact form of oakleaf hydrangea developed at the US National Arboretum — half the size of the species, making it suited to smaller gardens. Large white flower cones open in early summer and deepen to rose-pink as they age. Striking oak-leaf foliage; exceptional fall bronze-red color; exfoliating cinnamon bark on mature stems. Blooms on old wood. Zones 5–9. |
| Akadama® ('SK2DAMA' PP 28,860) | H. macrophylla | Deep pink to crimson mophead, reblooming | A highly productive rebloomer with vivid mophead blooms opening in deep pink and deepening with age. Extended bloom window. Compact form suitable for borders and containers. Zones 5–9. |
Pieris — Pieris japonica
Japanese pieris is an exceptional year-round evergreen shrub that rewards patient gardeners with three distinct seasons of ornamental interest. In late winter to early spring, long, cascading clusters of small, urn-shaped white flowers hang from the branch tips — superficially resembling lily-of-the-valley and often pleasantly fragrant. As those flowers fade, the new spring growth emerges in shades of vivid red or pink (depending on cultivar), creating a striking contrast with the older dark green foliage. Through summer, fall, and winter, the glossy evergreen foliage provides structure and year-round color in the landscape.
Pieris is a slow-growing, long-lived shrub — expect 4–7 feet tall and wide at maturity over many years, though habit varies considerably by cultivar. Its natural affinity for the Pacific Northwest is significant: the region's reliably acidic soils, high rainfall, and moderate temperatures produce conditions that closely mirror pieris' native habitat in the mountain forests of Japan and China. In many parts of the PNW, pieris requires almost no soil amendment and minimal supplemental irrigation once established.
All parts of Pieris japonica are toxic to humans and animals if ingested. The foliage, flowers, and nectar contain grayanotoxins (also called andromedotoxins). Keep children and pets from consuming any part of the plant. Deer and livestock occasionally browse pieris and can be affected. This toxicity is well-documented and should be factored into plant placement decisions on properties with livestock or young children who are prone to putting plants in their mouths.
Site and soil
Pieris requires acidic, consistently moist, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.0 — the same range as rhododendrons, azaleas, and blueberries, making it a natural companion plant in any acid-soil garden. It will not thrive in alkaline or calcareous soils; if planted there, chlorosis (yellowing of foliage) is the early symptom of soil pH incompatibility. Test your soil before planting. If your soil is naturally alkaline, growing pieris in a container of ericaceous (acid) potting mix is a practical alternative.
Sun requirements are flexible: pieris grows in full sun to part shade, with part shade often producing the best combination of vigorous growth, foliage quality, and flower performance. In hotter, sunnier climates, afternoon shade is beneficial. Protect from drying winter winds — particularly important for new growth, which is the most ornamentally valuable and most cold-sensitive part of the plant.
Annual mulching with pine bark, pine needles, or oak leaves maintains soil acidity and conserves moisture — both essential for long-term success. Do not fertilize with high-nitrogen products; use an acid-formulated fertilizer (rhododendron/camellia type) in early spring at the rates on the label.
Pruning
Pieris requires very little pruning. Remove spent flower clusters after bloom by cutting back to healthy buds or leaf nodes — this tidies the shrub and may improve the following year's bloom, though it is not strictly necessary. Avoid hard pruning into old wood, which can produce poor regrowth and disfigure the plant's natural layered form. If rejuvenation of an overgrown plant is needed, do it gradually over several years by removing the oldest stems at the base rather than shearing the whole plant.
Pieris varieties at Raintree
| Variety | Type | New Growth Color | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Forest Flame | P. japonica hybrid | Brilliant scarlet-red → pink → cream → green | One of the most ornamentally spectacular pieris — a hybrid of P. formosa 'Wakehurst' and P. japonica. New spring growth emerges in vivid scarlet-red, passes through salmon-pink and cream, then matures to glossy dark green. White flower clusters in spring. Upright, compact habit; 4–7 ft. RHS Award of Garden Merit. Zones 6–8. |
| Mountain Fire | P. japonica | Brilliant red → chestnut bronze → dark green | New growth emerges fiery red, maturing through rich chestnut to dark, glossy green. Highly reliable in the PNW. White flower clusters in early spring. RHS Award of Garden Merit. Zones 5–8. |
Wisteria — Wisteria frutescens 'Amethyst Falls'
Wisteria is the most dramatic flowering vine in the temperate garden — few plants produce the kind of spectacle that a mature wisteria in full bloom creates. The Raintree selection, Wisteria frutescens 'Amethyst Falls', is a native American wisteria chosen specifically for its advantages over the more commonly sold Asian species (W. sinensis and W. floribunda): it blooms younger, is far less invasive, is manageable in home garden settings, and blooms reliably each year rather than unpredictably. It is also deer resistant and has earned the Georgia Gold Medal.
'Amethyst Falls' produces lightly fragrant, 4-inch-long cascading racemes of lavender-blue flowers in late spring, with a reliable second flush of bloom in summer on the new growth that follows the spring flowering. Its growth rate is roughly a third that of Asian wisteria — it will eventually reach 20–25 feet but does so more gradually and stays controllable with annual pruning. In containers it can be trained into a stunning free-standing standard (tree form) by staking a single upright stem and pruning the top to encourage a flowering canopy.
Structural requirements — build it first
Wisteria is a heavy, woody vine that twines its stems around any support it can reach. A mature vine can weigh hundreds of pounds. The support structure must be built to last before planting: a sturdy pergola, heavy-duty arbor, or reinforced trellis anchored in concrete is the appropriate approach. Structures not engineered for significant sustained load will eventually fail. Do not train wisteria onto wooden fences, utility poles, or structures attached to buildings unless those structures are specifically designed to bear the weight and twining pressure. Once a wisteria vine has grown into a structure, it is very difficult to remove without damaging both vine and structure.
Pruning — two windows per year
'Amethyst Falls' blooms on new wood — a key advantage over Asian wisteria, which blooms on old wood and requires careful winter bud preservation. This means the vine can be pruned in late winter or early spring to shape and control size without sacrificing flowering. A second light trim after the spring bloom — cutting side shoots back to 2–3 buds — improves branching and encourages the summer rebloom. Summer pruning throughout the growing season keeps the vine in bounds; the vigorous annual extension growth can be cut back hard without worry. Remove any suckers from the base as they appear.
'Amethyst Falls' blooms slightly later than Asian wisteria — typically late May to June in the PNW — which puts it past the most frost-prone window and makes it a more reliable performer in cold-spring years. It prefers full sun for best bloom; part-shade sites will still flower but less abundantly. Plant on a south- or west-facing structure where the vine receives maximum warmth — reflected heat from a wall improves both bloom quality and the intensity of the fragrance. 'Amethyst Falls' does not become invasive in the PNW the way Asian wisteria can, though it still needs a strong support and consistent annual pruning to remain manageable.
| Variety | Type | Flower | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Amethyst Falls | W. frutescens | Lavender-blue racemes, lightly fragrant; 4–6 in. long | Native American wisteria — far less invasive than Asian species; blooms younger (often first year); reliable repeat bloom in summer. Climbs to 20–25 ft over time; a third the growth rate of Asian wisteria. Full sun. Two pruning windows: late winter, and after spring bloom. Deer resistant. Georgia Gold Medal. Zones 5–9. |
Hardy fuchsia — Fuchsia magellanica
Hardy fuchsia is one of the most productive flowering shrubs in the PNW — a plant that gardeners in other climates struggle to overwinter but that thrives with almost no attention in maritime western Washington and Oregon. Fuchsia magellanica originates from the coastal mountains of southern Chile, where it grows as a woody, mounding shrub 5–6 feet tall in conditions of high rainfall, moderate temperatures, and acidic soil — a description that fits the PNW maritime climate almost exactly.
The flowers are the classic fuchsia form: pendulous, two-toned blooms with a flared cerise-red outer tube and vivid purple-blue inner petals, produced prolifically on arching stems from early summer through the first frost. They are intensely attractive to hummingbirds, which are the plant's primary pollinators in its native range. The flowers are followed by small, dark purple-black berries with a spicy-sweet flavor — entirely edible and worth tasting, though most of the crop goes to birds. Raintree's stock comes from a high-altitude Chilean source, producing plants acclimated to cold and reliability in northern gardens.
Culture in the PNW
In Zone 8 maritime gardens, F. magellanica is fully hardy and will die back only in unusually cold winters — the root system is reliably hardy and resprouting is vigorous even after complete top kill. Mulch the crown in fall in Zone 7 and colder to protect the root system. New growth emerges from the crown and base in spring and will flower by early summer. In Zones 7 and colder, treat as a dieback shrub: leave the old stems through winter for wind protection and cut to the ground in early spring as new growth begins.
Sun requirements are flexible: full sun in cool coastal gardens produces the best flower production, but part shade in hotter inland locations prevents leaf scorch while still delivering excellent flowering. Hardy fuchsia prefers consistently moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter — again, conditions that most PNW gardens provide naturally. Very little fertilizer is needed in organically rich soils.
Hardy fuchsia is at its best in the PNW. In Zone 8 gardens west of the Cascades, it behaves as a true perennial shrub rather than a dieback plant, often retaining substantial woody structure through winter and producing earlier, heavier bloom each year as the plant matures. Plant it where hummingbirds can be watched — a west-facing border where the afternoon light catches the iridescent flowers is the optimal setting. Pair with salal for a naturalistic, low-maintenance Pacific Northwest combination that provides continuous wildlife value.
Additional ornamentals worth knowing
Forsythia — Forsythia spp. 'Gold Tide™'
Forsythia is one of the first shrubs to bloom each spring, often flowering in late February to March before any leaves emerge — a solid wall of brilliant yellow that signals winter is ending. Gold Tide™ is a compact, low-growing selection (2–3 ft tall, 4–5 ft wide) selected for mounding, ground-covering habit that needs very little pruning compared to upright forsythia types. It is exceptionally cold-hardy (Zone 4) and vigorous once established, tolerating a wide range of soils. Like all forsythia, it blooms on old wood — prune immediately after bloom if shaping is desired; any other pruning time removes next year's flowers. Full sun for best flowering. Its early bloom makes it one of the earliest pollen sources of the year for emerging bees.
Viburnum — Viburnum × burkwoodii 'Burkwood'
Burkwood viburnum is a semi-evergreen to deciduous shrub valued for its remarkably fragrant rounded clusters of white flowers in mid-spring and its adaptability across a wide range of conditions. The spice-clove fragrance carries a considerable distance — one mature shrub can perfume a significant portion of a garden. Hardy to Zone 4, tolerant of clay soils, and adaptable to full sun or partial shade, Burkwood viburnum requires very little care once established. Like flowering quince, it blooms on old wood — prune only after flowering. Black fruit clusters in fall attract birds. Grows 6–10 feet tall.
Salal — Gaultheria shallon
Salal is a Pacific Northwest native evergreen shrub with exceptional all-season garden value: attractive dark, waxy leaves used in the floral trade; small white to pink urn-shaped flowers in late spring; and deep purple-black berries in summer and fall that are edible (mildly sweet, mealy) and an important wildlife food source. It grows in the deep shade of coastal forests as well as in full-sun exposures, making it extraordinarily versatile. Salal is drought-tolerant once established and thrives in the acidic, organic soils typical of the PNW without amendment or fertilization. Raintree offers Cascade Sunrise™ ('Gaulsidh12'), a striking new cultivar with variegated foliage that adds ornamental interest beyond the species. Zones 6–9. Cascade Sunrise™ is a PNW native available exclusively for in-region customers in appropriate zones.
Wintergreen — Gaultheria procumbens 'Cherry Berries'
A creeping, low-growing native groundcover with year-round evergreen interest, strongly wintergreen-scented foliage, and bright red berries that persist from fall through winter and often into spring. 'Cherry Berries' produces particularly large, nickel-sized berries — dramatically showier than the species. Excellent groundcover for shaded areas under acid-loving trees and shrubs; a natural companion for blueberries or rhododendrons. Hardy to Zone 3. Berries are edible raw or used to flavor teas and beverages.
Pruning timing reference
The single most common ornamental shrub problem is failure to bloom due to pruning at the wrong time. The table below summarizes when each ornamental should — and should not — be pruned.
| Plant | Blooms on | Prune when | Never prune in |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flowering quince (Chaenomeles) | Old wood | Immediately after bloom in spring | Late summer, fall, or winter — removes formed flower buds |
| Forsythia | Old wood | Immediately after bloom in spring | Late summer, fall, or winter |
| Viburnum | Old wood | Immediately after bloom in spring | Fall or winter |
| Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) | Old wood (some varieties also new wood) | After bloom in summer; or deadhead only in spring for rebloomers | Late fall or winter pruning removes old-wood buds on non-reblooming types |
| Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) | Old wood | After bloom in summer | Fall or winter |
| Pieris | Old wood | After bloom in spring (deadhead only; minimal pruning needed) | Fall or winter — removes next year's flower buds |
| 'Amethyst Falls' wisteria | New wood | Late winter (primary shaping); light trim after spring bloom | No seasonal restriction — blooms on new wood regardless |
| Hardy fuchsia | New wood (current season's growth) | Early spring — cut to ground or to live wood as new growth begins | No restriction; avoid fall cuts that expose crown to frost damage in colder zones |
Common problems
A healthy shrub that produces no flowers is almost always a pruning-timing problem. The plant bloomed on the wood that was removed. This is the most frequently encountered ornamental problem in home gardens.
- Review the pruning timing table above and identify when the affected shrub was pruned
- For most flowering shrubs: prune only immediately after bloom; avoid any pruning from late summer through winter
- After a pruning correction, allow one to two full seasons for recovery — the plant must grow and ripen the new wood that will carry next year's flowers
- Wisteria 'Amethyst Falls' is the exception — it can be pruned at almost any time since it blooms on new wood
Interveinal chlorosis (green veins with yellow tissue between them) on acid-loving plants — pieris, hydrangea — is a classic symptom of soil pH that is too high (too alkaline), reducing iron and manganese availability. It can also indicate poor drainage or waterlogged soil.
- Test soil pH; if above 6.5 for acid-loving plants, lower it with elemental sulfur or apply chelated iron as a short-term treatment
- Amend planting areas with generous organic matter; mulch annually with pine bark or pine needles to maintain acidity
- In areas with strongly alkaline soil, grow pieris and H. macrophylla in containers with ericaceous potting mix
- Check drainage — plants sitting in wet soil can show the same symptoms even at correct pH
Flowering quince is in the rose family and susceptible to fire blight (Erwinia amylovora) — the same bacterial disease that affects apples and pears. Infected shoots turn dark brown to black and bend into a characteristic "shepherd's crook." More prevalent in warm, wet springs.
Fire blight — blossoms and shoot tips wilt, blacken, and curl into a shepherd's-crook (shown on apple; flowering quince and other pome ornamentals are susceptible). Photo: Joseph OBrien, USDA Forest Service(CC BY 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.
- Prune out infected wood promptly, cutting at least 12 inches below visible symptoms; sterilize tools between cuts with 70% isopropyl alcohol
- Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers that encourage the soft, fast growth most susceptible to fire blight entry
- Avoid overhead irrigation during bloom; the bacterium enters through flowers
- Fixed copper sprays applied at bud swell and bloom can reduce infection when conditions favor disease
Deer resistance varies considerably across ornamentals. Forsythia, flowering quince (once thorny), and wisteria are generally deer-resistant. Hydrangeas and pieris are browsed in some regions, particularly in late fall and winter when other food is scarce. Young plants are always more vulnerable than established ones.
- Protect new plantings of hydrangea and pieris with hardware cloth cages in their first two seasons
- Deer repellent sprays (clove-based, egg-based) provide seasonal deterrence; reapply after rain
- The thorny habit of most Chaenomeles varieties is a natural deer deterrent
The vivid red new growth of pieris in spring can attract aphids and andromeda lace bugs, which cause stippling and premature color loss on new leaves. Usually not serious on established plants but can be cosmetically significant on young plantings in their first few seasons.
- Encourage natural predators — avoid broad-spectrum insecticide use near pieris
- A strong water spray dislodges aphids from new growth
- Insecticidal soap or neem oil for lace bug infestations; apply to undersides of leaves where the insects feed
- Monitor in mid-spring as new growth emerges; early intervention prevents population buildup
Powdery mildew can appear on hydrangea foliage in late summer as white, powdery coating on leaf surfaces, particularly in shaded or low-airflow sites. Rarely affects plant vigor significantly and can be largely ignored in fall; more important to manage on young plants still establishing.
Powdery mildew — a white, powdery fungal coating on young leaves and shoots (shown on apple; the same mildew affects many ornamentals). Photo: megachile(CC0 1.0 (public domain)), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.
- Site plants where air circulation is good; avoid overhead irrigation
- Clean up fallen leaves in fall to reduce overwintering spore load
- Sulfur-based fungicides or potassium bicarbonate sprays if control is desired on young plants
Seasonal care calendar
- Cut forsythia and flowering quince branches for indoor forcing — look for plump flower buds on one-year-old wood; place in a warm vase of water
- Inspect and repair supports for wisteria and climbing structures before spring growth begins
- Prune 'Amethyst Falls' wisteria in late winter (February) for shaping — it blooms on new wood, so timing is flexible
- Keep mulch 4–6 inches deep over root zones of hydrangea and fuchsia in Zone 6 and colder; protect crowns from freeze-thaw cycles
- Do NOT prune flowering quince, forsythia, pieris, or viburnum — you will remove next spring's flower buds
- Flowering quince begins to bloom — earliest color of the year in PNW gardens; early bee activity begins; do not disturb or apply pesticides during bloom
- Forsythia blooms in February–March — avoid pruning until after flowers fade
- Apply acid-formulated fertilizer to pieris, hydrangeas, and acid-loving ornamentals before growth begins
- Cut hardy fuchsia to the ground or back to live wood as new growth emerges from the crown
- Apply fresh mulch over root zones; maintain 4-inch depth, pulled back from crowns
- Prune flowering quince immediately after bloom — the most important ornamental pruning task of the season; do not delay past petal drop
- Prune forsythia and viburnum immediately after bloom; shaping pruning now has a full growing season to produce flower buds for next year
- Pieris in full bloom — cascading white flower clusters; remove spent clusters after bloom if desired; minimal other pruning needed
- 'Amethyst Falls' wisteria beginning to bud; watch for and remove any unwanted twining into adjacent structures
- Viburnum fragrance peaks in mid-spring — peak pollinator activity
- 'Amethyst Falls' wisteria in peak bloom (late May–June in the PNW); light trim after first bloom to encourage summer rebloom
- Hardy fuchsia begins flowering — hummingbird season begins; no deadheading needed, faded flowers drop cleanly
- Cherry Explosionâ„¢ and other reblooming hydrangeas in first flush of bloom
- Begin supplemental irrigation in the PNW as spring rains diminish — particularly important for hydrangea (does not tolerate dry soil) and newly planted ornamentals
- Summer prune wisteria — cut vigorous extension shoots to 5–6 leaves to control size and improve next year's flower bud formation
- Hardy fuchsia continues flowering through first frost — keep well-watered in dry periods
- Flowering quince fruit ripening in September–October — harvest for jelly when fully yellow; highly fragrant at peak ripeness
- Hydrangea flower heads drying on the plant — leave them for winter structure and bird interest; cut in early spring
- Ruby Slipper oakleaf hydrangea fall color peaks October–November: vivid bronze-red
- Salal and wintergreen berries ripening — peak ornamental and wildlife value
- After first frost kills fuchsia tops in colder zones: leave stems in place for wind protection; mulch crown heavily before hard freezes