Persimmon

The persimmon genus (Diospyros, from the Greek for "divine fruit") gives home growers two cultivated species, and the right choice depends entirely on your climate. American persimmons (Diospyros virginiana) are native to a huge range from Florida to Connecticut and west to Iowa and Texas, and have been gathered and traded since at least the Algonquian word pasiminan — "dried fruit" — gave the species its English name. They are exceptionally cold-hardy (USDA zones 4–9), tolerate poor soils and drought, and produce small, intensely sweet, honey-flavored fruits that ripen to a jelly-like softness in mid-to-late fall. Asian persimmons (Diospyros kaki) were introduced to the United States only about a century ago and grow best in zones 7–10; their fruits are dramatically larger, available in both astringent and non-astringent types, and are the persimmons most people encounter in supermarkets.

Both species are strikingly ornamental — small to medium deciduous trees (American 30–60 feet, Asian 15–25 feet), with handsome glossy foliage that turns brilliant red, orange, or yellow in fall, and the spectacular sight of orange fruit hanging on bare branches well after the leaves have dropped. American persimmons in particular are valued as wildlife trees; the fruits feed deer, foxes, raccoons, opossums, and dozens of bird species.

Two qualities make persimmons exceptional for the home grower. First, they are nearly disease- and pest-free — no spray program is required for either species, an extraordinary claim among tree fruits. Second, persimmons are self-fruitful in most named Asian cultivars and partially parthenocarpic (capable of setting seedless fruit without pollination), so a single tree of the right cultivar can crop successfully. American persimmons are dioecious — male and female flowers on separate trees — so a pollinator is typically needed unless you choose a self-fertile cultivar like 'Meader' or 'Prok'. The variety section below covers which species and cultivars match your zone.

The persimmon family presents home growers with a genuinely important choice upfront. The two species sold by Raintree have different cold hardiness, fruit character, pollination needs, and typical uses. Getting this right before you plant saves years of disappointment.

Asian persimmon — Diospyros kaki

Native to China, where it has been cultivated for centuries, and spread to Korea and Japan before introduction to California in the mid-1800s (Oregon State University Landscape Plants). Asian persimmons produce large, brilliantly orange fruit — often the size of a peach — on a compact, ornamental tree that typically reaches 15–30 feet at maturity (UGA Cooperative Extension; GardenOracle), though many are maintained smaller with regular pruning. The fall display is spectacular: large glossy fruit hanging on bare branches after the leaves drop, with foliage turning blazing orange and red beforehand. Asian types are generally self-fertile and require no pollinizer. They are hardy to approximately 0°F on established wood — USDA Zones 7–10, with the most cold-hardy selections extending into Zone 6 with protection or favorable microclimates.

American persimmon — Diospyros virginiana

The native American persimmon is a different tree in nearly every respect: hardier (to –20°F or colder, USDA Zones 4–9), larger at maturity (30–50 feet, though manageable with pruning), and bearing smaller, plum-sized fruit. American persimmons are typically dioecious — male and female flowers are produced on separate trees — and both a male and female tree are required for fruit production. The fruit is intensely flavored, complex, and beloved by those who know it, described by University of Missouri Extension as having a butterscotch-rum-like character distinct from Asian types. Named cultivars offer reliable performance compared to seedlings.

Astringency is the most important concept in persimmon eating and harvesting. Unripe persimmons contain high levels of soluble tannins that produce a powerful puckering, mouth-drying sensation — biting into an unripe astringent persimmon is an unforgettable and unpleasant experience. As fruit ripen, tannins convert to an insoluble form and the astringency disappears entirely, leaving sweetness (UF/IFAS Extension). Asian persimmons are divided into two classes based on how and when this happens:

All American persimmons are astringent— they must be fully soft before eating (Clemson Cooperative Extension). The idea that persimmons require frost to be edible is a persistent and well-documented myth: as Clemson Extension states, "frost is not required for persimmons to be edible. In fact, frost will ruin immature fruit on the tree." The tannins dissipate through the normal ripening process, which has nothing to do with cold temperatures.

Raintree carries an excellent range of persimmon cultivars across all three groups — Asian (D. kaki), American (D. virginiana), and Asian × American hybrids. The varieties below are currently part of the Raintree catalog; specific availability varies seasonally. Purchase grafted trees for reliable performance — grafted trees fruit in 2–3 years; seedlings may take 5–7 years and produce variable quality.

Asian persimmons (D. kaki) — non-astringent (eat firm)

Eaten crisp like an apple. The most popular type for fresh eating, especially in the PNW where the maritime climate suits them well. All self-fertile and produce seedless fruit without a pollinizer.

Asian persimmons (D. kaki) — astringent (eat soft)

Must be allowed to ripen to jelly-soft before eating; the wait is rewarded with deep, syrupy sweetness. Excellent for drying and baking. All self-fertile.

Pollination-variant persimmons — "chocolate" types

A specialty group: non-astringent and brown-fleshed when cross-pollinated, but astringent when grown alone. Plant these in pairs to get the prized chocolate-fleshed fruit.

American persimmons (D. virginiana) — extreme cold hardiness

Native to eastern North America. Hardier than Asian types — survives where Asian persimmons can't. Smaller fruit (walnut-sized), but with intense complex flavor. Most American types are dioecious (separate male and female trees required) — the cultivars below are exceptional self-fertile selections.

Asian × American hybrids — the best of both

Bred to combine American cold hardiness with Asian fruit size and quality. Excellent for zone 5–6 growers who want larger fruit than pure American persimmons.

Persimmon pollination depends entirely on which species you are growing — the two have nearly opposite requirements.

Asian persimmon (D. kaki)

Most Asian persimmon cultivars are parthenocarpic — they produce fruit without pollination, yielding seedless fruit. A single Asian persimmon tree will typically fruit well without any pollinizer. A second tree of a different Asian cultivar can increase fruit size and yield, but is not required (Oregon State University). Note that Asian persimmon cannot cross-pollinate American persimmon.

A small group of Asian persimmon cultivars are pollination-variant: they are non-astringent when pollinated (producing the prized brown-fleshed "chocolate" types) but astringent when seedless. If you are growing a pollination-variant type, a pollinizer tree matters for fruit quality, not just quantity.

American persimmon (D. virginiana)

American persimmons are typically dioecious — male and female flowers are borne on separate trees (Clemson Cooperative Extension; University of Missouri Extension). Both a male and a female tree are required for fruit production. One male tree can pollinate several female trees. Note that seedlings are of unknown sex until they flower; if purchasing seedlings rather than named female cultivars, plant several to ensure at least one of each sex is present. Named female cultivars — Prok, H-118, Miller, Early Golden — are the reliable choice if fruit production is the goal.

One exception: 'Meader' is a self-fertile American persimmon cultivar (verified by NC State and other sources) and does not require a separate male tree. 'Sunflower' has also been reported as self-compatible in some sources, though this is less consistently documented.

Persimmon trees need full sun — a minimum of 8 hours of direct sun per day. Sun drives flower bud initiation, fruit ripening, and the color and flavor development that makes persimmons worth growing.

Persimmons are notably tolerant of a wide range of soils — one of their genuine advantages as a home orchard tree. They prefer well-drained, moderately fertile soil with a pH of approximately 6.0–7.0, but will tolerate less-than-ideal conditions better than most fruit trees. They do not tolerate waterlogged soil; avoid low spots where water stands after rain. American persimmons in particular are drought-tolerant once established and can thrive in poorer soils where other fruit trees would struggle.

Space trees according to species: Asian persimmons typically reach 15–25 feet at maturity (manageable with annual pruning) and can be spaced 15–20 feet apart. American persimmons can reach 30–50 feet and need more space in a landscape setting, though regular pruning can keep them considerably smaller. Plant in early spring while trees are dormant.

Chill hours

Persimmons are relatively low-chill compared to apples and pears. Asian cultivars require as few as fewer than 100 chill hours (UC Cooperative Extension); most fall in the 100–200 hour range, with some cultivars needing up to 400 hours. American persimmons generally need 200–400 hours. This makes persimmons a good choice for mild-winter areas where high-chill fruit trees underperform.

Water young trees consistently during the establishment period — approximately 1 inch per week over the root zone during the growing season, adjusted for rainfall and soil type. Deep, infrequent watering is always preferable to frequent shallow watering. Once established (typically after 2–3 seasons), persimmons — especially American types — are remarkably drought tolerant and require little supplemental irrigation in most climates.

Persimmons need minimal fertilization. Clemson Extension notes that "normal lawn fertilization is usually adequate" for trees growing in a maintained landscape. If the tree is growing in an orchard bed, a modest application of balanced fertilizer in early spring is sufficient when shoot growth or foliage color indicates a need. Apply only from late winter through early summer — late-season fertilization encourages soft growth susceptible to cold damage. Excessive nitrogen produces vigorous growth at the expense of fruiting and can make branches more prone to breakage under heavy fruit loads.

A 3–4 inch mulch layer around the root zone conserves moisture, moderates soil temperature, and reduces competition — keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.

Persimmon wood is notably brittle and branches break easily under heavy fruit loads — this makes early structural training critical. OSU Extension (PNW 400) recommends a modified central leader with 3 to 5 main scaffold branches for both Asian and American persimmons, with particular emphasis on developing wide crotch angles (near horizontal). Narrow-angled branches are prone to splitting from the trunk as fruit weight increases. Branches can be spread with spacers, weights, or spreader sticks while still young to achieve the desired angle.

Persimmons bear fruit on both new wood and one-year-old wood (UC Marin Master Gardeners). Avoid uniformly heading back all branches — this eliminates a significant portion of the fruit-bearing wood. Instead, open the tree by removing some older branches and heading any that have grown excessively tall, pruning to an outward-facing bud.

Prune during dormancy (late winter, before bud break) to remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches and to maintain tree height at a manageable level. Asian persimmons require relatively little pruning once trained; American persimmons are more vigorous and benefit from annual attention to control height. Remove root suckers promptly.

Persimmons ripen from September through November depending on variety and location. Harvest timing differs meaningfully by type:

Non-astringent Asian (Fuyu, Jiro, etc.)

Harvest when fully colored (deep orange) and the fruit separates easily from the stem with a gentle upward twist. Can be eaten immediately at this firm stage, or left to soften further. Non-astringent types can be left on the tree for weeks after reaching full color without becoming overripe — they hold well on the branch. Harvest before temperatures drop below 25°F (–4°C), which can damage the fruit. Fruit can be refrigerated for up to one month in sealed bags.

Astringent Asian (Hachiya, etc.) and American

Harvest when the fruit is fully colored but still firm — bird and wildlife predation is the primary reason to harvest at this stage rather than waiting for on-tree softening. Allow to ripen at room temperature until completely soft (for Hachiya: almost jelly-like). To accelerate de-astringency: freeze for 24 hours then thaw at room temperature; store in a paper bag with ripe apples or bananas (ethylene exposure); or store at 65–70°F for 1–2 weeks. Refrigerate ripe astringent persimmons only once fully soft — Hachiya can be refrigerated individually in plastic bags for up to one month (GardenOracle).

American persimmon

American persimmons are best harvested when they naturally drop from the tree or separate with virtually no pressure — or after a "jiggle test" where the branch is shaken and ripe fruit falls. University of Missouri Extension notes that fruit eaten just at the point of natural drop is at its flavor peak. American persimmons have a very short shelf life once fully ripe — refrigerate immediately and use within a few days, or freeze pulp for longer storage.