Raintree Growing Guide
Quince
A gnarled, fragrant gem that was in almost every American yard a century ago — variety selection, site, pruning, and harvest for the best-kept secret in the home orchard.
AT A GLANCE
SUN
Full sun — min. 8 hours/day
USDA ZONES
4–9 (most varieties)
Chill Hours
~300–500 hrs (variety dependent)
Growing difficulty
Easy — watch for fire blight pressure
Pollination
Self-fertile; yield improves with a second tree
First Fruit
Grafted: 3–5 yrs
Soil
Well-drained; pH 6.3–6.8 preferred
Mature Size
10–15 ft managed; 15–20 ft without pruning
Training
Vase/open center; espalier against warm wall
What is quince — and why grow it?
Quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a member of the rose family, closely related to apples and pears, and the sole species in its genus. Its gnarled, twisted branches, large pale-pink blossoms, and brilliant golden-yellow fruit make it one of the most distinctive trees you can plant in an edible landscape. A century ago it was in nearly every rural yard; its quiet disappearance from American gardens has nothing to do with its quality and everything to do with the supermarket preference for fruit that can be eaten straight off the shelf.
Most quince is too astringent to eat raw — but cooked, it transforms. Slow heat unlocks deep, floral, aromatic complexity: the flavor of membrillo (quince paste), quince jelly, and quince poached in red wine has no substitute in the fruit world. It is also extraordinarily high in natural pectin, which means jams and jellies set beautifully without added pectin. A few newer varieties — notably Aromatnaya — are sweet enough to eat fresh when fully ripe.
âš Don't confuse with flowering quince
Fruiting quince (Cydonia oblonga) and flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa or C. japonica) are different genera — they do not cross-pollinate, and their fruits are not interchangeable. Flowering quince is commonly sold as a landscape shrub for its showy early spring blooms. If you want fruit for cooking and preserves, make sure you're purchasing Cydonia oblonga.
Culinary uses
Quince's hardness and astringency disappear with heat. Common uses include jams and jellies (the high pectin content makes for a clean, firm set), membrillo (the Spanish quince paste served with manchego), poached and roasted desserts, tarts and pies, savory braises and tagines, and additions to apple cider for depth and tannin. Its intense perfume is unique — a bowl of ripe quince can scent an entire room.
Ornamental value
Beyond fruit, quince earns its place in the landscape. In late spring it produces large, solitary, five-petaled flowers — white to pale pink — that resemble oversized apple blossoms and attract early pollinators. The twisted trunk and bark develop character with age. Fall foliage turns clear yellow. In winter, the sculptural branch structure reads well against a sky or fence.
Choosing varieties
Raintree carries one of the most diverse quince selections in North America. The varieties below represent the range available; consult the catalog for the full list. Most need 300–500 chill hours, making them well-suited to the majority of the Pacific Northwest and most of the country.
| Variety | Best use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Smyrna | Cooking, preserves, membrillo | Brought from Turkey over a century ago. Large, pear-shaped, lemon-yellow fruit; mild flavor favored for desserts and jellies. ~300 chill hours. Reliably productive. |
| Aromatnaya Fresh-edible | Fresh eating, cooking, cider | Pineapple-like flavor sweet enough to eat fresh when fully ripe. Round, yellow fruit; disease-resistant tree from the Black Sea region of Russia and Turkey. Ripens October. |
| Pineapple | Jelly, baking, preserves | Heavy crops of large, intensely fragrant fruit. Sweeter than most varieties; lower chill requirement. Heat-tolerant and cold-hardy. Popular in American home orchards. |
| Van Deman | Cooking, preserves | Developed by Luther Burbank in the late 1800s. Orange-skinned fruit turns striking red when cooked. Requires more chill hours than Pineapple or Smyrna. USDA Zones 5–10. |
| Havran | Cooking, fresh eating | Exceptionally large, sweeter fruit from the Izmir Research Station in Turkey. Durable, productive variety. |
| Ekmek | Culinary all-purpose | The most popular quince in Western Turkey — "ekmek" means "bread." Medium-sized; excellent for cooking and preserves. |
| Karp's Sweet | Fresh eating, baking | Uniquely sweet, juicy, and non-astringent. Can be eaten fresh, especially when grown in warm-summer areas. |
| Rich's Dwarf | Small spaces, containers | Dwarfing habit with large fruit. Useful where space is limited. Ripens earlier than standard-sized varieties. |
Pacific Northwest tip
The PNW's moderate chill hours (typically 600–1,000+ in western valleys and foothills) far exceed what most quince varieties require, so chill hours are not the limiting factor here. The real question issummer heat: quince needs a long enough warm season to ripen fully. In the Willamette Valley and most of western Washington's lowlands, Smyrna, Aromatnaya, and Pineapple ripen reliably. In the cooler northern Puget Sound coast, earlier-ripening varieties and south-facing sites are preferred. East of the Cascades, the warm, dry summers suit virtually all varieties.
Pollination
Quince trees are self-fertile — a single tree will set fruit without a cross-pollinator. However, like most pome fruits, yield and fruit size both increase with cross-pollination from a second quince tree nearby. Pollinizing trees should be planted within 50 feet of each other for reliable bee movement between them.
Bees and other pollinators do the work. Quince flowers in late spring, after most other pome fruits, which reduces competition for pollinators. To keep bees active around your trees, avoid spraying any pesticide — including organic sprays — during bloom.
âš Flowering quince will NOT pollinate fruiting quince
This is one of the most common mistakes in quince planting. Flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) belongs to a completely separate genus from fruiting quince (Cydonia oblonga). They do not cross-pollinate. Only a second Cydonia oblonga tree counts as a pollinizer for yield improvement.
Pacific Northwest tip
Quince blooms later than apples or pears in the PNW, often after the worst rainy periods have passed. This means pollinator activity is generally better during quince bloom than during early pome fruit bloom — one reason quince tends to set reliably even without a second tree. That said, a second tree is still the easiest insurance against a poor crop in a cool spring.
Site selection and soil
Quince needs full sun — a minimum of 8 hours of direct sun daily. Sun triggers flower bud initiation for the following year's crop, drives ripening, and develops the intense flavor and aroma that make quince worth growing. Trees planted in shade produce little fruit and are more susceptible to disease.
Quince tolerates a wider range of soil conditions than most pome fruits, but it performs best in well-drained, moderately fertile loam with a pH of approximately 6.3–6.8. Amend heavy clay soils with compost or organic matter; avoid low, poorly drained spots where water stands after rain. A 2–4 inch mulch layer after planting helps maintain moisture and improve the soil over time — keep it a few inches away from the trunk.
Planting
Plant in late winter or early spring, while the tree is dormant. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball; improve the broader planting zone rather than creating a single nutrient pocket. Set the graft union 2–4 inches above soil grade to prevent the scion from rooting and to protect against rot at the union. Water deeply at planting and maintain consistent moisture through the first growing season.
Chill hours and hardiness
Most quince varieties are hardy to USDA Zones 4–9 and require approximately 300–500 chill hours (temperatures between 32–45°F). This is a relatively low requirement compared to apples and pears, making quince a useful choice for mild-winter areas where other pome fruits may fail to break dormancy reliably. In areas where winter temperatures dip below 5°F regularly, espalier training against a warm wall can provide winter protection for the upper portion of the tree.
Pacific Northwest tip
In the maritime PNW, quince's tolerance for wetter soils (compared to peaches, for example) is a real advantage — though it still requires drainage. In urban PNW gardens, espalier training against a south- or west-facing fence or wall is excellent practice: it maximizes the sun and heat the fruit receives during our often-cloudy summers, and it protects against late-winter cold. Eastern WA and OR growers have no ripening concerns; the warm summers produce large, intensely flavored fruit.
Watering and feeding
Water young trees deeply while establishing — approximately 1 inch per week over the root zone during the growing season (roughly ¾ to 1 gallon per square foot of root area per week), adjusted for rainfall and soil type. Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep rooting; shallow, daily watering creates surface roots vulnerable to drought and heat. For mature trees, reduce supplemental watering once the tree is well established — quince tolerates some dry periods, but consistent moisture during fruit development improves size and quality.
Quince rarely needs heavy feeding. A modest application of compost or balanced fertilizer in early spring is sufficient for most trees. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which promotes lush, soft vegetative growth that is highly susceptible to fire blight — quince's most serious disease. A useful rule of thumb: if your tree is producing roughly 12 inches of new growth per year with healthy-looking foliage, it does not need fertilizer.
Apply fertilizer only between late winter and early summer. Fertilizing after midsummer encourages late-season growth that hardens poorly and is vulnerable to winter cold damage.
Pacific Northwest tip
In western WA and OR, established quince typically needs little to no supplemental watering through June — our spring rainfall is generally adequate. Irrigation becomes important in July–September during the dry season when fruit is sizing up. In eastern WA and OR, drip irrigation is essential from early in the growing season; deep, infrequent watering is far more effective than frequent surface watering in the region's fast-draining soils.
Pruning and training
Quince is most commonly trained to an open center (vase) form — three to five main scaffold branches radiating outward from a short trunk, leaving the center open to light and airflow. Unlike apples, quince does not lend itself to a strong central leader; its naturally bushy, multi-stemmed habit is better suited to the open center approach. With age, a well-maintained quince develops a characterful, gnarled form that is beautiful in the landscape.
An important pruning fact: quince flowers and fruits on the tips of the current season's growth. Do not remove all new growth when pruning — you will eliminate the upcoming crop. Focus on removing crossing, crowded, or inward-growing branches and maintaining airflow through the canopy.
Open Center (Vase) — Recommended
3–5 scaffold branches; open middle; fruit on new shoot tips. Natural fit for quince's growth habit. Good light and airflow. Easier to harvest at moderate height.
Espalier (Fan or Horizontal)
Excellent for warm-wall culture in cool climates. Requires annual detailed pruning. Not ideal as primary method for a freestanding tree, but superb for PNW urban gardens.
Prune annually during dormancy — late winter, before bud break — for structural work. Remove: dead, diseased, or crossing branches; strong vertical shoots competing with scaffolds; root suckers (remove promptly and completely, as they will develop into a thicket if left). Disinfect tools between trees and between cuts when fire blight is present (10% bleach solution or 70% isopropyl alcohol). Quince needs less pruning as it matures.
Pacific Northwest tip
In the wet PNW, open center pruning serves double duty: it maximizes the limited sun that reaches the fruit to aid ripening and flavor development, and it dramatically reduces disease pressure by improving airflow and drying time after rain. This is especially important for reducing fire blight and brown rot incidence. Do not prune during wet weather if fire blight is a concern in your area — wet conditions spread bacterial pathogens on tools and open wounds.
Harvest
Quince ripens in fall — typically September through November depending on variety and location. The fruit is ready to harvest when it has turned fully golden yellow and has developed its characteristic strong, floral fragrance. Ripe fruit separates easily from the branch with a gentle upward twist; fruit that requires hard pulling is not yet ripe.
A key principle: leave fruit on the tree as long as possible to develop maximum flavor and fragrance — but harvest before the first hard frost. Unlike apples, quince benefits from being allowed to continue softening slightly off the tree after harvest before use.
Storage
Stored properly in a cool location (32–36°F / 0–2°C) at high humidity (85–90%), quince can keep for 2–6 months — a long shelf life that makes it valuable for fall preserving and winter cooking. Keep quinces in single layers or well-ventilated crates; check regularly and remove any fruit showing signs of decay. Flesh browning is the most common limiting factor in long-term storage.
Store quince away from other produce. Quince is a climacteric fruit — it continues to produce ethylene gas after harvest. Keep it separate from ethylene-sensitive vegetables and fruits such as leafy greens and root crops to prevent premature spoilage of those items. At room temperature, quince keeps only 1–2 weeks.
Pacific Northwest tip
In coastal western WA and OR, harvest timing is worth monitoring carefully. Quince needs warm fall weather to develop full flavor; a cold, wet September can leave fruit under-ripe on the tree. Late-ripening varieties like Van Deman may struggle to fully ripen in cooler maritime sites in some years. Aromatnaya and Pineapple are safer choices for cool sites. In eastern WA and OR, the warm, dry falls are ideal for developing richly flavored fruit across a wide variety of ripening dates.
Common problems
Quince is generally more resilient than apples and pears, but it shares one serious vulnerability with those relatives: fire blight. Good cultural practices — especially avoiding excess nitrogen and pruning for airflow — go a long way.
Fire Blight
High — Primary concern
The most serious threat to quince. This bacterial disease (Erwinia amylovora) spreads through open flowers during warm, wet bloom periods and via pruning cuts. Symptoms include blackened blossoms, scorched-looking leaves, and the characteristic "shepherd's crook" curl of infected new growth.
On shoots & leaves — blighted shoot bent into the classic "shepherd's crook" (shown on pear, a close quince relative). Photo: Scot Nelson(CC0), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.
On fruit — young fruitlets blackened and shriveled (shown on pear; quince is highly susceptible). Photo: Ninjatacoshell(CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.
- Avoid all excess nitrogen fertilization — lush, soft growth is highly susceptible
- Prune infected wood 12–18 inches below visibly infected tissue into two-year-old wood during the growing season; winter dormant pruning can be made closer to the canker margin (WSU Tree Fruit BMP)
- Disinfect tools between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach); note that WSU Tree Fruit research shows cutting at the correct distance below the canker is more protective than tool sanitization alone
- Do not prune during wet weather — this spreads the pathogen
- Copper spray at bud break can reduce primary infection at bloom; avoid spraying during open bloom
- Prune for airflow — dense canopies trap moisture and favor infection
Pacific Northwest
Warm, wet bloom periods are common in the maritime PNW — exactly the conditions that favor fire blight spread. Monitor young trees especially closely; a severe fire blight infection on an established quince is serious but usually survivable with aggressive pruning. On a young tree, it can be devastating. Keep nitrogen low and maintain open canopy structure as your primary preventive tools.
Codling Moth
High — Widespread PNW
Codling moth (Cydia pomonella) is the classic "wormy fruit" pest. Although it prefers apple, it readily attacks quince — WSU Tree Fruit confirms it as a significant pest on quince in the PNW. Larvae bore into developing fruit, leaving characteristic tunnels filled with frass and causing the fruit to rot.
Adult codling moth — note the coppery band at the wingtip. The larvae tunnel into developing fruit. Photo: Ben Sale(CC BY 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.
- Monitor with pheromone traps to track flight activity and time treatments accurately
- Apply codling moth granulosis virus (Cyd-X or Madex HP) — effective and approved for organic use
- Kaolin clay (Surround) applied as a physical barrier reduces egg-laying on fruit surfaces
- Remove and destroy infested fruit; maintain orchard sanitation through the season
Brown Rot
Moderate
Caused by Monilinia fungi, brown rot can affect quince fruit and blossoms, especially during warm, wet conditions near harvest. Symptoms include a soft, rapidly expanding brown rot on ripe fruit and twig cankers.
Brown rot — fruit rots, shrivels into a mummy, and erupts in tan-grey spore tufts (shown on peach; brown rot also attacks quince fruit). Photo: m.borden(CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.
- Remove and destroy infected fruit promptly — do not leave mummified fruit on the tree or ground
- Prune for airflow to reduce humidity in the canopy
- Copper fungicide applied after harvest and before fall rains can reduce overwintering inoculum
Powdery Mildew
Low–Moderate
White or gray powdery coating on leaves and young shoots. Initiates in cool, humid spring conditions; spreads visibly in warm, dry weather. Rarely fatal but weakens new growth and can distort leaves.
Powdery mildew — a white, powdery coating on susceptible new growth (upper shoot), beside healthy new growth. Photo: megachile(CC0 1.0 (public domain)), via Wikimedia Commons — resized.
- Prune for airflow; remove infected shoots at first sign
- Sulfur sprays can reduce spread if caught early
- Avoid overhead irrigation
Rodent Damage (Voles, Mice, Rabbits)
Moderate — Winter
Bark eaten in a band from soil level upward, especially under snow cover or heavy mulch. Voles and mice may also attack roots just below the soil surface. Girdling can kill a tree outright.
- Keep mulch 4–6 inches away from the trunk at all times
- Keep grass short and clear within 1–2 feet of the trunk
- Use a vinyl tree guard wrapped around the trunk until the bark has thickened
Aphids
Low
Small pear-shaped insects that colonize new growth, particularly on the undersides of leaves. Leaves may curl or show sooty mold from honeydew secretions. More of a concern on young or stressed trees than established ones.
- Natural predators (lady beetles, parasitic wasps) often provide control without intervention
- Knock aphids off with a strong water spray
- Control ants, which protect aphid colonies; insecticidal soap as a last resort
Seasonal care calendar
Winter
Dec - Feb
- Prune for open center form; remove dead, crossing, and inward-growing wood
- Remove root suckers completely
- Apply dormant oil to control overwintering scale and mite eggs
- Check and renew trunk guards against rodent damage
- Order trees early for best variety selection
Early Spring
Mar - Apr
- Apply copper spray at bud break to reduce fire blight primary infection risk
- Do NOT spray during open bloom — protect pollinators
- Watch for fire blight symptoms on emerging shoots; prune immediately if found
- Ensure adequate soil moisture if conditions are dry
Pacific Northwest
Quince blooms later than apples and pears — often after the worst rainy periods in the maritime PNW. This is a real advantage for fruit set and fire blight timing. Still monitor copper spray timing carefully at bud break, as the wet cool spring weather coincides with peak fire blight infection risk.
Late Spring
May - Jun
- Begin codling moth monitoring with pheromone traps
- Apply Surround (kaolin clay) or begin granulosis virus treatments per trap timing
- Apply modest balanced fertilizer if new growth indicates the tree needs it — early this month at the latest
- Maintain consistent watering for newly planted trees
Summer
Jul - Aug
- Maintain consistent irrigation during dry periods — this is critical for fruit sizing
- Continue codling moth monitoring; treat per trap captures
- Remove fallen fruit promptly to break codling moth and brown rot cycles
- Light summer pruning to remove strong vertical shoots crowding the canopy
Fall — Harvest
Sep - Nev
- Harvest when fruit is fully golden-yellow, intensely fragrant, and separates easily with a gentle upward twist
- Leave fruit on the tree as long as possible for maximum flavor — but harvest before a hard frost
- Store at 32–36°F at high humidity; keeps 2–6 months; keep separate from ethylene-sensitive produce
Pacific Northwest
In western WA and OR, watch weather forecasts carefully in October — the first hard frost can arrive before late-ripening varieties have fully developed. Eastern WA and OR typically enjoy a long, warm harvest window ideal for developing full quince flavor and fragrance.
Post-Harvest
Nov – Dec
- Remove all fallen fruit and leaf debris — critical for reducing overwintering disease and pest populations
- Apply copper fungicide before fall rains to reduce overwintering fire blight and brown rot inoculum
- Renew mulch around the root zone if needed; keep clear of trunk
- Deep water if fall is dry before the ground freezes
- Evaluate the season and plan any variety additions